Paul Robinson recently embarked on a multi-year road trip around the world and his first stop was in Rocklands, South Africa. He’s been chronicling the trip on his new blog where he’s checked in with reports on his quick repeat of Daniel Woods’ Derailed (V14) as well as his efforts to do the first repeat of the Fred Nicole testpiece Monkey Wedding (V15?).
Additionally, according to this post on 27crags Paul also did the first ascent after significant breakage (FAASB) of Black Eagle bumping the grade on that problem to V14 (and changing the name to Bleagle) with a sit start still waiting an ascent.
Any thoughts on Paul’s reluctance to try Livin’ Large? I think it’s one of the best problems in the world, personally.
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Nalle appears to have extraordinary vision when it comes to his projects – they are all amazing settings and beautiful lines. I have to say though, based on the film footage (which is no substitute for seeing it in person), Livin Large just doesn’t look fun. It looks super scary and blank. But, holy ess what an accomplishment so I’d agree with B3’s assessment that its one of the best lines in the world. It looks like an ultimate test. I think it’s a line for a very rare breed.
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Perhaps the motivation to do that hike and wrangle up enough pads to work it for several days just isn’t there now that it’s not an FA??
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Thank-you for not saying ‘The’ Rocklands! :p
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haha. I try my best but I do have to say that it is sometimes hard to resist saying ‘the rocklands’ for some reason.
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I think Paul needs to man up and give that thing (Livin Large) some attention; he’s capable, he’s there, it’s completely friggin awesome! No hate, just spurs.
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actually, didn’t he just seriously F-up his ankle last year? Maybe this isn’t the project for him right now at all.
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Excellent point.
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What’s up with changing the name of a problem because a hold broke? Not On.
You can make an argument that a sit start is always the true line and thus an established and named stand start isn’t really “legit.” Therefore, the FA of a sit to an established stand gets a different name. But I think it’s bullshit to rename a problem just cause you did it after breakage (assuming same start and finish).
Whoever named it “Black Eagle” had that privilege as a first ascentionist, and regardless of holds breaking, it’s still called “Black Eagle” if you start and finish in the same places as they did.
This speaks to the fundamental approach of naming a line up a piece of rock with X start and Y finish (how you get between the two is your business) as opposed to naming a sequence of moves. Obviously I support the former as the latter approach slides down the slick slope of renaming every sequence that’s discovered and is obviously retarded.
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Perhaps Paul is worried about his ankle, finds the hike too long, can’t get all the pads he needs, or is just plain intimidated. But there is no need to be critical of the problem (with no mention of Nalle’s 12 days of effort on the FA) and I think this comes off as a slight to the fact that Nalle didn’t find the hike too long, made the huge effort to get pads* and that Nalle wasn’t scared. In my eyes Nalle’s FA of Livin’ Large is one of the most outstanding efforts in the history of bouldering. It only makes it that much more impressive that Paul, who climbs V16, won’t even try it, and that this is now clearly the hardest problem in Rocklands, and perhaps the world.
*”we only had four pads, which is not a lot for that problem.”-Nalle, commenting in Core, about the day he did the FA of Livin’ Large.
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He’s not under any obligation to climb it. It’s just some rock out in the middle of nowhere; regardless of how you or anyone else views that arete it’s still just a chunk of rock out in the middle of nowhere.
If Paul thinks it’s not worth his time then it’s not worth his time. Just because he’s strong and the problem is hard doesn’t mean he is required to try it. I don’t understand the need to be critical if it just doesn’t inspire him or motivate him.
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Let me start by saying that Livin’ Large looks like an amazing line.
I think it may well be the case that considering the height of Livin’ Large, Paul is simply too intimidated to try it considering his past ankle problem. Furthermore, It does appear strange to me that the hike poses a problem if you’re talking about one of the premier bouldering lines in the world.
I do agree with you Jamie that Paul seems to diss the line and the FA effort in his post, saying: “I’m not too impressed”. It is somewhat uncalled for…It may not be his style of a boulder problem, but it doesn’t mean he should disregard it like that.
That being said, having followed (and appreciated) your blog for a while, it seems you have something against Paul. You certainly have called into question his efforts in the past. What’s up with that?
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If he’s not impressed, he’s not impressed. Thats his explanation, and I’d leave him to it. I’m more impressed by big moves on overhanging chunks of rock, big prows jutting out at a large angle. Things that look like Mandala strike me more than Livin’ Large. I’d rather not slap up an arete, just because thats not my preferred style. I’m just gonna say that Paul is his own person. He’s not obligated to climb anything, and its not a reflection on how good of a climber he is.
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I see my observations as objective, although they should be questioned. If Paul is interested in being the best climber in the world, as he has often stated, he should be going after the hardest climbs in the world. This is clearly one of the those climbs.
He doesn’t have to try the problem, and he should certainly question the quality of it, I would encourage that.
Let’s not forget that he commented that the “The Story of Two Worlds” was “dabby.” He unquestionably has a right to that opinion, but I was very surprised to read that. I didn’t think it looked that way, particularly after knowing the nature of many of the problems in RMNP. Dai Koyamada only confirmed my thoughts, did not find it “dabby”, and made a stunning repeat. I thought that was one of the coolest things that happened recently in bouldering.
I am not sure what Paul gains by telling the world he is not impressed. He could have just said “It was an amazing effort, but it’s really scary and I am psyched on other things. Good job Nalle, sick problem.”
I am probably the only person in this thread that has actually seen the problem (I think?) and it is unbelievable! Absolutely stunning for the line, the rock quality, the perfectly flat landing, and the effort put in by Nalle. I have traveled all over the country, to France, Switzerland and SA and it stands out as possibly the best problem I have ever seen. I find it unfortunate that Paul doesn’t give Nalle huge props for putting up a problem (one grade below his limit) that he won’t even try (for whatever reason).
Additionally, the hike is no longer than going to Jade, except that the elevation is about 8000ft lower, and that was before Nalle and Chuck made what they told me was “a good path.”
Am I not allowed to call these things into question? I tend to disagree with Paul’s opinions more often because they seem more often inconsistent.
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Glad to see that someone is seeing there way to defend the rude comment that Paul made. I think since they both compete in the comps maybe they are not the best buddies….Either way world class climber should display world “class.”
Just wanna say thanks a lot for your blog Jamie….i’ve spent some rainy days in Boone reading your rag. Come on down and get a taste of some southern granite, you’ll never leave.
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I have never been to Boone and I would love to come! The rock looks great. Rumbling Bald, too?
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I recall reading those comments about the boulders in Switzerland with a raised brow as well. I think it would serve Paul well to consider the broad audience his comments reach and maybe give some more thought to his choice of words in the future.
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god you are probably one of the biggest tools in climbing. way to bring everything down. take everything so serious. be overly critical of any and every comment made by climbers you don’t like. you remind me of sarah palin…
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Personally, I’m glad that Paul stays out of silly quarrels like these on the internet and instead focusing on actually going out there and climbing. It’s unfortunate to have to come on here and read all these negative comments about Paul for no reason at all other than he doesn’t want to try a rock climb.
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I think he was well aware of commenting on nalle’s problem as unimpressive. He runs a blog and says comments like that he either wants to be the topic of conversation or he want to put nalle’s efforts down. He could have said “Nalle’s ascent was very solid but it is not my type of problem” What’s wrong with saying this in a positive light.
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As someone else who has seen Livin’ Large in person I too, will attest to its beauty and quality. The rock is as good as I’ve seen and the line is singular and stunning. It IS tall however, and if Paul felt uncertain about his ankle I would totally respect his decision not to climb on it.
Actually, even if he had just said something to the effect of, “it doesn’t suit me so I’ll focus on something else” I’d understand. But to say he was unimpressed is hard to believe and disrespectful of Nalle’s efforts. To claim the hike is “insanely long” is laughable. It’s shorter than the hike to Jade in RMNP and not particularly strenuous with the new trail.
Also, I too call bull shit on renaming Black Eagle just because it broke.
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Paul comes off Not So Nice with the language he uses. renaming Black Eagle open for debate
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Debate?
A foot crumbles and it’s 1/2 V-grade harder – does the most recent ascentionist get to rename it?
A hand breaks but difficulty remains the same – rename?
New beta makes it easier – rename?
New beta makes it harder – rename?
Isn’t it blatantly obvious how utterly stupid it is to rename a problem just because you are the most recent ascentionist after a breakage or beta epiphany. The key concept is “recent” since as the planet ages and the grips on all boulders erode, the nature of the moves will change on every problem over time.
There can be only one first ascent and only one name. There will always be ever-changing and evolving beta up that line.
Distinct variation exits or starts on the other hand…
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what’s Techo Tres B’s new name? there isn’t.
what’s alergita’s new name? there isn’t.
unless black eagle was mutilated, i don’t see a need to rename it. regardless, impressive send Paul.
with regards to Living Large, he’s not impressed, who cares? sure his resume is missing some “standards” but that’s for the time being.
don’t forget, he owned the gunks during his high school career, sent nearly everything in colorado his first year of college, then killed the rest of the state over those four years (anyone remember the entire Dali boulder in a day?), has a college degree (does ANY professional climber on his level have one?), sent everything at Joe’s in those four years, ate lunch in hueco, took down a lot of SA and swizzy, both in 2 months.
maybe a talented young austrian climber will visit with a soft drink film crew and bolt it 🙂 Ivan Green can sing on the soundtrack too.
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Agree with B3. If Paul’s motivation is to be considered the best, he should repeat the world’s hardest problems, not dismiss them.
Talking negatively about the problem without doing it seems petty.
If he had sent The Story of Two Worlds or Livin Large before he made those comments, that would have been entirely different.
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For anyone interested Paul has logged this climb on his 8a calling it Black Eagle. He had this to say-
“amazing one of the best. a true stunnnaaaaaa. very MUCH different with the broken holds. new beta that completely changes the climb entirely.HARD. BLackEAGLE. i did not rename anything.”
http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/scorecard/AscentList.aspx%3FUserId%3D2603%26AscentType%3D1%26AscentClass%3D0%26AscentListTimeInterval%3D1%26AscentListViewType%3D0
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Just curious ejw what ya think of his comment about nalle’s boulder problem
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http://p-d-robinson.tumblr.com/
just curious as to what you guys think the tone of this post is!?!
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http://p-d-robinson.tumblr.com/post/811384618/derailed-check
This all may have stemmed from this
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