Winter training starting to wear you out? Looking for a reason to get off the couch? Need a little motivation for your weekend? Then perhaps one of these videos will help get you psyched.
The first is a stellar clip of Iker Pou doing the 2nd ascent of Chris Sharma’s tendon busting route Demencia Senil (5.15a or 9a+) at Margalef, Spain’s Laboratory crag.
IKER POU – DEMENCIA SENIL (MONTAJE 2.1) from jordi canyigueral on Vimeo.
The second video comes from Joe Kinder. While admittedly not the highest quality footage, the video shows Dave Graham doing the 2nd ascent of Lev Pinter’s Bunda Ju Fora (5.14d or 9a) at Acephale, Canada. Have a great weekend everyone!
Dave Graham on 9a Bunda Ju Fora from Joey Kinder on Vimeo.
This is what you do with getto footage from a trip that you just really want to use. Dave climbing the second ascent of Lev Pinter’s route Bunda Ju Fora 9a.
that video of pou makes you appreciate even more just how good of filmmakers the lowell brothers are. the progression version is 10x better!
also, why didn’t sharma do the no hands rest? did he think that distracted from the flow/style of the climb? could a correlation be drawn from him skipping the rest on demencia with taking the dyno route on es pontas?
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This is just speculation on my part, but Sharma might have done the no hands rest and BigUp might have edited it out. After all, the route would be a little bit more badass (if 50 feet of shallow mono’s and 2-finger pockets isn’t badass enough already) if it didn’t have a rest.
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I actually like the Iker vid better than the Sharma one – better camera movement, better closeups of the holds, the bat hang, the color effects, transitions and vingetting…I think it’s one of the more creative things I’ve seen. You can download it and watch it in 720p, by the way, look around on the Vimeo page for the link.
blatant plug: link to my stuff…
http://www.vimeo.com/user589107/videos
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really? i can give you those points, but i cannot forgive the music. that stuff was way too cheezy!
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thats kind of wack that u need a soundtrack 2 enjoy a 9a climb
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totally. super weak.
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totally wack.
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Not so sure. After watching them back-to-back, The Sharma video clearly has less camera filters and more close-ups, allowing for a clearer picture of the climb itself. I don’t think the Pou video is bad by any standard, although I don’t like the jagged non-contiguous editing… but that’s a subjective thing.
So what’s the story about Sharma’s dyno on Es Pontas? I heard that Ethan Pringle said it was contrived, but what does that mean exactly?
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Yo Iker krushed that thing . . . . i seen this older version of him workin the line and it looked like total shit, So I’m pretty that this 2.1 version has done its justice.
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The dyno on Es Pontas is not contrived. There is another line on Es Pontas that stays further left on the arete instead of entering the steep face proper. The line goes at 12b. The line of crimps Ethan talks about actually leads way out left from the dyno holds and then goes up and traverses back to the hold Sharma dynoes for. The crimp line is much more contrived seeing as how it goes pretty far out of the way. I was out there and saw it and also I think Toni Lamprecht was working on it and made a similar assessment. He realized he would not be able to complete Es Pontas and went for a variation with those crimps. Named it something, cant remember what.
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Interesting, in this movie I saw called Perfecto, where Ethan Pringle is trying Es Pontas he was disappointed that the dyno was apparently a “showboat” move, and also that the real tough part was the upper crux on the arete which completely shut him down…
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I don’t think showboat is the correct term. It’s not like we think Sharma is weak… he doesn’t need to show off. He probably just thought the dyno was more fun. why does it matter if it was mandatory or not? The line is still inspiring.
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Either way, no one has repeated Es Pontas skipping the dyno or not! Contrived or not it’s still a kick azz hard climb!
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I like this video a lot better than the progression clip..
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Here is an interview with Toni Lamprecht about the Es Pontas variation and how hard Es Pontas felt to him:
http://www.arcteryx.com/Article.aspx?article=Toni-Lamprecht—-Antonator-
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