Another week, another impressive piece of news from Czech youngster Adam Ondra.
Proving that his skills are not limited to roped climbing, Ondra flashed Dave Graham’s Confessions (V14) in Cresciano, Switzerland making him a world record holder the first to flash a boulder of this grade. You’ll remember that he also flashed 2 V13’s earlier this summer in South Africa’s Rocklands. Imagine the possibilities if he spends more time bouldering!
According to filmmaker Petr Pavlíček, Ondra has done many other V12-V14 problems in Switzerland the past few days for an upcoming movie project that was mistakenly left on the internet a few weeks ago. Definitely something to look forward to.
Update: You can see video of Daniel Woods doing Confessions in this video at MVM (you have to log in to MVM for the link to work).
Update #2: Also in Cresciano, Adam Ondra did the first ascent (after a crucial hold broke) of the full Dreamtime using a new sequence. Apparently the grade is still around the V14 range. He also repeated Toni Lamprecht’s The Dagger (V14) and did all the moves on the sit start but found linking the two “too complicated”. Of course linking the sit start into The Dagger yields Dave Graham’s unrepeated problem The Story Of Two Worlds (V15?).
Ondra registered his flash of Confessions as V13 on his 8a.nu scorecard with this to say about the grade:
Well, 8B+ flash sounds amazing but I can’t put as 8B+, it was all too simple compared to The Dagger or La Proue. I just gave it go without expecting anything and suddenly I was on the top and did not find it very hard. But I do not say it can’t be 8B+, it might have been pretty much my style or I don’t know… To flash The Vice was much more difficult for me. see Martin’s comment as well.
Can you say Brave and Humble™??
Update #3: Here is a nice gallery that shows Ondra trying The Dagger, Dreamtime and Confessions among other problems.