On the still not-functioning-in-the-U.S. MoonBlog comes apparent word that Ty Landman has repeated Kheops Assis (V14) in Fontainbleau. (Via TheLowDown)
Ty Landman Repeats Kheops Assis
Posted February 24, 2009 at 10:24 am · Comments { 5 } ·
Posted In: Asides, Bouldering, News
Climbers: Ty Landman
Areas: Fontainebleau
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Man, I was wondering why I couldn’t read the MoonBlog!! Good to know it’s not just me!
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It’s really bordering on an act of war from the U.K. If they don’t give us our moonblog soon we will have no choice but to invade.
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Some added grit in Wisconsin would be nice. We can split stanage between Milwaukee and Madison. I say we invade.
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Those of you in the USA who are dying to read what’s going on over here in font, then try a UK based proxy such as;
http://www.daveproxy.co.uk
Just go there, type in http://www.moonclimbing.com and you should arrive at the site without seeing “usa” in the web address. That way you can access the blog without a problem.
It’s a bad solution to a problem that shouldn’t exist, but until it’s resolved this will at least let you read the blog.
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thats what Ty has to say:
“Saturday 21st Feb
After a rest day and a viewing of Sylvester Stallone’s classic, Over the Top, I knew good things were on the horizon. I woke up to surprisingly warm temps but was unfazed: Today was the day, I knew it from the start. A week ago, after doing the stand in a session, I had my first day on Khéops assis, coming very close but bailing due to trashed skin. After some rest, skin growth and new psyche, today I set out to Cuvier Rampart for my second session on the big K-Assis. I warmed up slowly waiting for the sun to drop and the evening temps to arrive. It got slightly colder but getting kind of impatient, around five I put my boots on and prepped for attempt numero uno. Holds brushed, tick marks in effect, time to satch it up. I remembered how I whipped Gecko assis out the bag first go and knew that I could do the same here. I pulled on and made my way up to the razor sharp crimp, pulling on it hard yet delicately. I felt light, Qijong light. I was going to the top and there was no doubt about it. I arrived at the crux building my feet high, sucked in on the sidepull and reached up to the sloper slower than ever before. Stallone flashed through my mind, over the top I thought, over the top. I adjusted on the key hold, something previously precarious now comfortable as ever. I climbed to the top as reality had its delayed set in. What had once appeared impossible, had become a formality, something many levels below my limit. It is safe to say that I feel nowhere near my max, and I hope to one day dedicate myself to climbing something close to my limit. Although I’m not keen on commenting on grades as I feel they tend to take away from the enjoyment of climbing; Khéops Assis in no way felt 8C to me, and 8B+ would certainly be more appropriate. I am excited to have made the fourth ascent of Gecko + Khéops Assis and look forward to many more adventures in the forest over my next five weeks here.
On the way back to the car, after a close flash attempt, I did C’etait Demain, the first 8A in the forrest. Got to pay the dues.
Keith has captured all my ascents on video, so lookout for his upcoming Font film due in a couple months.
Signing out sipping champagne,
Ty”
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