More when we get home, but in the meantime here are your ABS 10 Adult National Bouldering Championship results:
Mens
- Daniel Woods
- Paul Robinson
- Sean McColl
Womens
- Alex Johnson
- Chauncenia Cox
- Alex Puccio
A pretty impressive and dominating performance on the part of Daniel Woods made for a really exciting event. More to come…
Update: Since I posted the final results from the USA Climbing website it might be helpful for people if I (try to) explain the scoring system used. The basic explanation of the scoring system is that there are only two holds that count on each of the 4 finals problems. There is a so-called Zone or Bonus hold and the finish hold.
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The bonus hold is a semi-random hold, usually toward the top of the problem. Climbers get credit for controlling the bonus hold and the finish hold. The other holds literally count for nothing. Several climbers climbed from the bonus hold to within inches of the finish hold, but they get the same credit as someone who fell off the bonus hold. Likewise, many climbers climbed several moves on a problem and fell before controlling the bonus hold which means they are scored as if they basically never left the ground.
To best understand the results on the USA Climbing website, I would recommend just reading the columns on the left where it lists the total tops and total bonuses for each climber. For example, you can see that Daniel Woods got all 4 bonus holds as well as all 4 finishes in an impressive 5 total attempts. Right behind him, Paul Robinson got all 4 bonus holds but only 3 finishes.
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It’s pretty easy to see why they finished first and second. After that it gets a bit confusing. The way the final scoring is done is that climbers are ranked first by # of problems they top out, then by # of attempts to top out, then by # of bonus holds followed by # of attempts to reach a bonus hold. This is how Julian Bautista, an impressive young climber who topped out 2 problems and got 2 bonus holds, finished ahead of other climbers that topped out 2 problems AND controlled 4 bonus holds. He took fewer attempts on the problems he topped out which trumped the fact that other climbers with the same number of topouts controlled more bonus holds. Confusing, I know.
Needless to say, this system is fairly controversial among the climbers, but it is the way things are done in Europe so we will probably have to get used to it for the time being.
Update #2: It should also be noted that only the top 3 finishers received prize money. Payouts were as follows for both the men and women: 1st place – 50, 2nd place 0, 3rd place 0.
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Not exactly like winning the U.S. Open or anything…
I guess the votes came through, with 1, 2, Field. Just happy that Alex Johnson is representing and crushing hard for Wisco.
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Very sick show! The scoring system makes little to no sense, but it was still a good time. Wisconsin represent!!
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thanks for being quick w the update!
Congrats to AJ and DW
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Props to you, narc. This was the first site I checked for results. Thanks for pulling through, as always. Very pleased with the women’s field results. I look forward to seeing Daniel’s domination in a video – he’s gotten nasty strong: have you seen the south africa footage from real rock tour? fuckin’ a
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Thanks. It certainly helps when I can be at the comp as far as posting results goes.
I’m not sure if there will be video online or not. Chuck F had a team on hand to shoot for video shown on screens during the comp.
I have yet to see the SA footage but Woods was in pretty good form last night, that’s for sure.
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There will be raw highlights on MVM in the next few days. Stay tuned..
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Brian, thanks for the explanation. The scoring system is not a good one, but as this is the qualifier for the World Cup, its one that should be used. Hopefully the World Cup with realize that their system is flawed, and change things soon.
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Hey Brian, any word on any of the youth or junior results?
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We didn’t stick around for the results for the youth comp. They haven’t been posted on the USA Climbing website yet either.
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A full report with more photos is on http://www.deadpointmag.com
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The scoring system puts a lot of emphasis on onsighting. It really counts if you get to the top or the bonus hold first try. Getting tops in fewer tries is weighted more than getting bonuses. However, I agree that it sometimes doesn’t make sense when the situation with Julian Bautista arises. It might seem fairer to score # of tops, # of bonuses, # of attemps to top, # of attempts to bonus.
All that being said, we’ve been using this scoring system in Canada (especially western Canada) for years now. The experience with the scoring system has allowed our athletes (Sean McColl) to excel in World Cup competitions held in Europe – the center of the World’s competitive scene. At least we’re finally beginning to see these events held in North America, thanks to Vail. Using the same scoring system at all events will have a positive impact on your results in international events.
And really, in the end, did the scoring system fail your top competitors? You still saw the people you expected to see on the podium for both male and female categories.
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Excellent points. # of tops followed by # of bonuses might make more sense with # of attempts for each to break ties after that.
As far as the right people being on the podium, the Men’s top 3 was fairly clear cut. For the women, I think the scoring system left things a bit less clear. That could be partly because of the system or the way the problems worked out, I don’t really know. Alex Puccio looked like the strongest competitor but her one fall on problem #3 really cost her.
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I don’t remember any huge checks in 2007 or 2008…
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I don’t remember a huge check last year but I’m pretty sure there was money involved.
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