Chris Sharma Onsights Two (or Three?) 5.14s In Maple Canyon

Chris Sharma Onsights Two (or Three?) 5.14s In Maple Canyon

Fresh off his well publicized ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15), Chris Sharma made a brief stop in Utah’s Maple Canyon last weekend.  In short order he managed to onsight T-Rex (5.14b), Divine Fury (5.14b), Whole Shot (5.13d/14a), and Toxic Turkey (5.13c) along with a few other 5.13s.  Especially impressive is the beta intensive nature of the overhung climbing on these routes in the Pipe Dream Cave.  They are usually climbed with a high amount of jessery (kneebars, heel-toe scums, etc.) to stave off the inevitable pump.  Given his impressive fitness level, it should be interesting to see what happens when Sharma visits Rumney for this weekend’s Nor’easter festival.

On the subject of 5.14 onsights, off the top of my head I can’t think of any other 5.14 onsights done in the U.S and here Sharma has done 2 or 3 in short order.  If you can think of any others, leave them in the comments.

Chris Sharma pulling down in the Pipe Dream Cave

Sharma pulling down in the Pipe Dream Cave

Photo:  John Evans

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20 Responses to Chris Sharma Onsights Two (or Three?) 5.14s In Maple Canyon

  1. eddie September 25, 2008 at 8:50 am #

    what about those euros in the red last fall?

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  2. Narc September 25, 2008 at 8:55 am #

    Looking back on my post on the event I noted that Steve McClure almost onsighted Transworld Depravity but couldn’t quite pull it off. Its possible I missed something though.

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  3. Jamie September 25, 2008 at 12:24 pm #

    Dave flashed a 5.14a at the Fortress years ago and an 8C flash in Canada. close I guess but no onsite.

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  4. Luke September 25, 2008 at 1:56 pm #

    Of note might be Dave Graham’s Onsight of Gropius 8b/b+. It was the first onsight of the route and he said it was hard. Possibly 14a after a recent break (via 8a.nu).

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  5. abe September 25, 2008 at 6:10 pm #

    anybody know wutt kicks chris is sportin ??????

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  6. Narc September 25, 2008 at 6:14 pm #

    Evovle? Not sure the specific model

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  7. peter September 26, 2008 at 12:24 am #

    I would presume some prototype model that people will swoon over because Sharma wears them. If he started only climbing barefoot, so would the climbing world. Can’t believe fiveten didn’t fight harder to keep him…

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  8. brandon September 26, 2008 at 9:42 am #

    garth miller onsighted cannibals direct at americian fork in the late 90’s

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  9. Sweatpants September 26, 2008 at 12:12 pm #

    it looks like the optimus. his new shoe from Evolve.
    weeerrddd.

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  10. C-Horse September 26, 2008 at 6:46 pm #

    He’s been hanging out with the European climbers. Those cats are pretty good at what they do and that’s evident here lately with Chris.

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  11. Eric Holliday September 26, 2008 at 11:22 pm #

    Katie Brown- Omaha Beach 14a… down rated to 13d the day after her feat.

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  12. rock climbing September 27, 2008 at 1:56 pm #

    That is awesome the routes at maple are typically very beta intensive and can be really hard to onsight. Nice job Chris!

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  13. philip September 27, 2008 at 10:58 pm #

    Not an onsight.. but Sean McColl flashed Thanatopsis .14b at the Red last October.

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  14. peter September 28, 2008 at 7:10 pm #

    Not to take away from the ascents, but it is my understanding that Omaha Beach WAS .13d when Katie Brown onsited it. The route has subsequently been upgraded to .14a due to the crumbling / breaking of several key holds. Also, it has been suggested by more than one person that Thanatopsis is .14a “with the new beta.” I have no idea which method Sean McColl used. No matter what, both ascents are seriously impressive.

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  15. philip September 28, 2008 at 9:44 pm #

    I watched Sean flash it. Mike Doyle was shouting beta to him as he climbed it so I suppose it was the old beta. Either way I agree the flash was very impressive, regardless of the grade.

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  16. Narc September 29, 2008 at 8:27 am #

    So maybe DG with Gropius and Garth Miller back in the 90’s. Seems like the Americans need to step their game up!

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  17. Daniel Van onge October 8, 2009 at 6:47 pm #

    to whom this may concern, on the topic of on-sighting 5.14’s, i think that smith rock has a wide variety of long and difficult sport climbs that deserve some attention. Chris Sharma should make the trip down and hit up some more of those ill nasty gnar gnar in-sight 5.14’s…naaa meeeen!

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  18. Phunk October 8, 2009 at 11:02 pm #

    He checks this thread every year, so you’re probably in luck.

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  19. Rhoads May 12, 2010 at 11:13 pm #

    Boooring! Notify me when Sharma starts plugging serious gear. He can and he will!

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Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. Girl Talk In Rifle | Climbing Narcissist - September 25, 2008

    […] * – (Chris went to Maple Canyon instead it would appear). – Carlo Traversi did the 5th ascent instead. […]

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