Yosemite Bouldering: Housekeeping

Yosemite Bouldering: Housekeeping

If this is a post about the Housekeeping boulders, then why is the preview image of the LeConte memorial you ask?  Because it gives me an excuse to bring up Dean Potter’s ridiculous problems on the LeConte boulder:  the 40 foot tall King Air (V10) and the horrendously pin scarred crack Sasquatch (V11).  Standing underneath King Air, the boulder seems to almost loom over you in a menacing way.  Even more impressive is that Ethan Pringle flashed it!  Alright, enough time spent on problems I will never climb and on to the nearby Housekeeping boulder.

Unnamed (V2)The Housekeeping boulder was probably the best single boulder we climbed on all week.  It had a few doable (gasp) easy problems along with a few more challenging problems that were also very doable.  After a few warmups, Mrs. Narc found the project she had been looking for all week.  Pictured at right, the unnamed problem follows a line of increasingly poor crimps up and left to a jug on an arete.  She made quick progress, linking the long powerful moves together only to be stymied by the difficult lock-off move that guards the last set of crimps before the topout jugs.  It was exciting to see Mrs. Narc get motivated on a project, and I have no doubt that our next visit will result in a quick send.

Big Moe (V3)

I managed to get a few climbs in as well.  I was a jerk and climbed Mrs. Narc’s aforementioned project, and then I went to the other side of the boulder to try Big Moe (V3).  Physically it may have been a bit early in my rehab to try a problem of this nature, but I couldn’t resist.  If you are short you jump start to a good jug (or just reach up and grab it if you are me) and smear your right foot on a tiny crystal.  Once established, throw up left hand to a decent hold, bring right foot up higher (pictured at left), match hands and then huck for a good jug to begin the topout.

This was the first time I have done much serious bouldering in my Five Ten Dragons, and this problem in particular really opened my eyes to how good of a shoe they really are.  The beginning foothold is basically one crystal sticking out of the rock and the Dragons made it feel incredibly solid.  On the second foothold they gave me a feeling of actually pulling some of my weight in which was key in not coming off.  I can’t wait to see what else they are capable of.

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6 Responses to Yosemite Bouldering: Housekeeping

  1. peter beal August 5, 2008 at 5:46 pm #

    Hey Brian,
    I’m going to order some Dragons and I wonder what you think about sizing in comparison to V10s
    Peter

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  2. Narc August 6, 2008 at 6:21 am #

    For reference, here are my shoe sizes:

    Street shoe – 10.5
    New V10 – 10.5
    Dragons – 10.5

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  3. PAUL August 6, 2008 at 8:40 am #

    street shoe 11 (nike, five ten, etc)
    dragon 8.5
    v10 8.5

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  4. Narc August 6, 2008 at 10:53 am #

    wow, the anorexia has gotten to your feet too!

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  5. PAUL August 8, 2008 at 7:59 am #

    haha yep~ im thinking its just that ive been wearing super tight shoes since like age 10 is why i can fit into still super small ones…

    but yea the anorexia is at an all time high, yesterday i ate one saltine!

    oh an evans!!lets go bouldering! i would be psyched to show u around. let me know when u have a good date pplanned and me and my gf sarah will surely meet you up there!

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  6. Narc August 8, 2008 at 12:17 pm #

    Awesome. I will hit you up next week once we know more of when we are going to be where. Probably Wed/Thurs/Fri of that week?

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