Yosemite Bouldering: Housekeeping

Yosemite Bouldering: Housekeeping

If this is a post about the Housekeeping boulders, then why is the preview image of the LeConte memorial you ask?
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  Because it gives me an excuse to bring up Dean Potter’s ridiculous problems on the LeConte boulder:  the 40 foot tall King Air (V10) and the horrendously pin scarred crack Sasquatch (V11).  Standing underneath King Air, the boulder seems to almost loom over you in a menacing way.  Even more impressive is that Ethan Pringle flashed it!  Alright, enough time spent on problems I will never climb and on to the nearby Housekeeping boulder.

Unnamed (V2)The Housekeeping boulder was probably the best single boulder we climbed on all week.  It had a few doable (gasp) easy problems along with a few more challenging problems that were also very doable.  After a few warmups, Mrs. Narc found the project she had been looking for all week.  Pictured at right, the unnamed problem follows a line of increasingly poor crimps up and left to a jug on an arete.  She made quick progress, linking the long powerful moves together only to be stymied by the difficult lock-off move that guards the last set of crimps before the topout jugs.  It was exciting to see Mrs. Narc get motivated on a project, and I have no doubt that our next visit will result in a quick send.

Big Moe (V3)

I managed to get a few climbs in as well.  I was a jerk and climbed Mrs. Narc’s aforementioned project, and then I went to the other side of the boulder to try Big Moe (V3).  Physically it may have been a bit early in my rehab to try a problem of this nature, but I couldn’t resist.  If you are short you jump start to a good jug (or just reach up and grab it if you are me) and smear your right foot on a tiny crystal.
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  Once established, throw up left hand to a decent hold, bring right foot up higher (pictured at left), match hands and then huck for a good jug to begin the topout.

This was the first time I have done much serious bouldering in my Five Ten Dragons, and this problem in particular really opened my eyes to how good of a shoe they really are.
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  The beginning foothold is basically one crystal sticking out of the rock and the Dragons made it feel incredibly solid.  On the second foothold they gave me a feeling of actually pulling some of my weight in which was key in not coming off.  I can’t wait to see what else they are capable of.

Posted In: Bouldering, Pictures


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6 Responses to Yosemite Bouldering: Housekeeping

  1. peter beal August 5, 2008 at 5:46 pm #

    Hey Brian,
    I’m going to order some Dragons and I wonder what you think about sizing in comparison to V10s

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  2. Narc August 6, 2008 at 6:21 am #

    For reference, here are my shoe sizes:

    Street shoe – 10.5
    New V10 – 10.5
    Dragons – 10.5

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  3. PAUL August 6, 2008 at 8:40 am #

    street shoe 11 (nike, five ten, etc)
    dragon 8.5
    v10 8.5

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  4. Narc August 6, 2008 at 10:53 am #

    wow, the anorexia has gotten to your feet too!

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  5. PAUL August 8, 2008 at 7:59 am #

    haha yep~ im thinking its just that ive been wearing super tight shoes since like age 10 is why i can fit into still super small ones…

    but yea the anorexia is at an all time high, yesterday i ate one saltine!

    oh an evans!!lets go bouldering! i would be psyched to show u around. let me know when u have a good date pplanned and me and my gf sarah will surely meet you up there!

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  6. Narc August 8, 2008 at 12:17 pm #

    Awesome. I will hit you up next week once we know more of when we are going to be where. Probably Wed/Thurs/Fri of that week?

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