If this is a post about the Housekeeping boulders, then why is the preview image of the LeConte memorial you ask?
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Because it gives me an excuse to bring up Dean Potter’s ridiculous problems on the LeConte boulder: the 40 foot tall King Air (V10) and the horrendously pin scarred crack Sasquatch (V11). Standing underneath King Air, the boulder seems to almost loom over you in a menacing way. Even more impressive is that Ethan Pringle flashed it! Alright, enough time spent on problems I will never climb and on to the nearby Housekeeping boulder.
The Housekeeping boulder was probably the best single boulder we climbed on all week. It had a few doable (gasp) easy problems along with a few more challenging problems that were also very doable. After a few warmups, Mrs. Narc found the project she had been looking for all week. Pictured at right, the unnamed problem follows a line of increasingly poor crimps up and left to a jug on an arete. She made quick progress, linking the long powerful moves together only to be stymied by the difficult lock-off move that guards the last set of crimps before the topout jugs. It was exciting to see Mrs. Narc get motivated on a project, and I have no doubt that our next visit will result in a quick send.
I managed to get a few climbs in as well. I was a jerk and climbed Mrs. Narc’s aforementioned project, and then I went to the other side of the boulder to try Big Moe (V3). Physically it may have been a bit early in my rehab to try a problem of this nature, but I couldn’t resist. If you are short you jump start to a good jug (or just reach up and grab it if you are me) and smear your right foot on a tiny crystal.
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Once established, throw up left hand to a decent hold, bring right foot up higher (pictured at left), match hands and then huck for a good jug to begin the topout.
This was the first time I have done much serious bouldering in my Five Ten Dragons, and this problem in particular really opened my eyes to how good of a shoe they really are.
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The beginning foothold is basically one crystal sticking out of the rock and the Dragons made it feel incredibly solid. On the second foothold they gave me a feeling of actually pulling some of my weight in which was key in not coming off. I can’t wait to see what else they are capable of.
Hey Brian,
I’m going to order some Dragons and I wonder what you think about sizing in comparison to V10s
Peter
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For reference, here are my shoe sizes:
Street shoe – 10.5
New V10 – 10.5
Dragons – 10.5
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street shoe 11 (nike, five ten, etc)
dragon 8.5
v10 8.5
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wow, the anorexia has gotten to your feet too!
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haha yep~ im thinking its just that ive been wearing super tight shoes since like age 10 is why i can fit into still super small ones…
but yea the anorexia is at an all time high, yesterday i ate one saltine!
oh an evans!!lets go bouldering! i would be psyched to show u around. let me know when u have a good date pplanned and me and my gf sarah will surely meet you up there!
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Awesome. I will hit you up next week once we know more of when we are going to be where. Probably Wed/Thurs/Fri of that week?
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