I’ll start the posts about our recent trip to Yosemite with some bouldering reports. Before I get into specifics, let me share my opinion on the overall Yosemite bouldering picture first.
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I wouldn’t say that I have bouldered in a huge number of different areas, but I have done my fair share of diverse bouldering. I’ve bouldered on sandstone, quartzite, gneiss, granite, volcanic rock and who knows what else. With that said, the bouldering in Yosemite is hard. For me it was harder than anywhere I’ve ever climbed. Granted it was my first time climbing in several months, but I have never gotten shutdown on easy problems like I did in Yosemite. Attempts on numerous V0s and V1s ended in defeat.
I attribute much of this difficulty to the nature of the climbing Yosemite. The climbing is generally a combination of glassy feet, small holds and usually above average difficulty mantles. And those are just the V0-2 problems. If you are looking to pad your spraysheet with a slew of easy ticks, Yosemite might not be for you. If you are looking to try hard and climb classic lines regardless of the grade then you would probably enjoy the climbing in Yosemite. Much like we did. Read on for more.
Our first stop on the Yosemite bouldering circuit was a relatively new area called Candyland. Candyland is unique in Yosemite for a couple reasons, mainly it’s seclusion and the freshness of the rock. Many of the areas in Yosemite have been climbed at for many decades and they have the polish to prove it. Also, many of the areas in Yosemite are located next to popular Touron areas, so the peace and quiet offered in Candyland is a nice change of pace.
Due to an apparent West Nile virus conference taking place at the boulders we didn’t do to much exploring beyond the initial boulders you come across, but the few problems we did try were fun.
The trend of difficulty started right away on our attempted warm-up which was listed at V0.
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A few big moves led to a dirty topout mantle rather far off the ground that seemed distinctly lacking in holds for V0. Both Mrs. Narc and I bailed off the topout and decided to move on. I believe I said at the time that I didn’t feel like getting hurt “just” to climb a V0. What a snob…
We moved to the next boulder over to attempt Alobar (V2) which is pictured at left. I hucked my way through the off balance moves and Mrs. Narc came very close to sending as well. Not a great problem by any stretch, but it felt good to get on top of a boulder again.
The main reason I wanted to go to Candyland despite it’s lack of easy problems was the amazing looking dihedral problem Once Upon A Time (V3). Despite not sending, this has to be one of my favorite problems of all time. The pictures don’t really show the problem’s true height which is around 20 feet. You work your way up the dihedral relying mostly on the incredible frictional stemming offered and less and less on actual handholds. You really start to feel the air under your feet as you work your way higher into the dihedral which makes committing to the last few moves pretty exciting. Fortunately we had our brand new Organic bouldering pad beneath me so the falls were pretty casual. Alas, I was shutdown 1 hold away from the top when it became obvious that I had zero ability to crimp thanks to my recent surgeries. (Don’t use the picture at right for beta either as my right hand is not touching anything useful)
See the gallery below for more pictures of both problems.
why dont you eat a hamburger or something. you should check out the post on anorexia on 8a and look in the mirror sir.
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yay climbing! yay no BOOTofDOOM! YAY NO THUMBCAST THING!
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sweaty – should I log all ascents done in an emaciated state as “log book no score” on my spraysheet to make up for it? Not to be vain but I’m surprised I have any muscle left seeing as I literally haven’t done any upper body physical activity since November ’07.
socktard – Indeed. I often times found myself smiling from ear to ear when I realized I was climbing again. Such a good feeling.
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If you check the new “rules” they actually left off number 5 with very clearly states the scenerio you just described. Play fair, no points for you !!!
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Either way. I don’t think I’ll be catching p-rob anytime soon.
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i wouldnt sell yourself short. first comes an eating disorder, then comes v15.
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i guess im just going to have to log book all of my scores… what a shame.
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HA!
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