Finger Injuries Of Doom

Finger Injuries Of Doom

Being that I am no stranger to finger injuries, both benign and catastrophic, I was extremely dismayed to recently learn that two of our young protégés have cracked bones in their fingers.  Kevin and Tony have been quickly improving their climbing over the past year (under our tutelage of course) only to have these injuries stop them in their tracks.  I would like to wish them the speediest of recoveries and remind them to not be like me and continue climbing!
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  Remember, do as I say, not as I do. Go work on your game with the ladies or something.  Take a bit of time off and you will be back in it before you know it.

Tony and/or Kevin, if you would like to keep your spirits high for a speedy recovery please do not continue reading this post.  Click here to go somewhere positive.

Here is my story about a similar injury:

I was afflicted with a similar injury 7 years ago after 2 weeks of cranking on the pockets at Wyoming’s Wild Iris.  It was our last day of climbing and I was trying to climb a tweaky .12a called Limestone Cowboy or something like that.  My first attempt at pulling on the very tweaky crux pocket resulted in failure and a tweaked feeling in my left middle finger.  Not deterred, I tried again only to have the same move result in a horrific popping noise followed by (failure and) the inability to even move my left middle and ring fingers for two days.
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  Upon returning home, X-Rays revealed a cracked bone in the main joint of my middle finger.  I kept climbing for a few weeks, at a surprisingly high level even, before my Freshmen year of college gave me a good excuse to take some time off…
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for about a year.

7 years later my knuckle still makes a popping noise every time I straighten it and the joint seems permanently prone to injury.

On that uplifting note, happy 4th everyone!  Hopefully you aren’t even reading this and you are out climbing.

Posted In: Off the Board

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12 Responses to Finger Injuries Of Doom

  1. aaron July 4, 2008 at 10:37 am #

    Did the bone split?? O.o!!

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  2. Kevlar July 5, 2008 at 8:09 am #

    I kept climbing on it for awhile, having no clue it was broken. Ooops. I hope it gets better soon.

    Tony, If that is your x-ray, mine is different. Its literally chipped/cracked on the knuckle, and the joint is compressed.

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  3. Tony July 6, 2008 at 2:34 pm #

    Thats not my X-ray either, I’m hoping to get it when I go to see the surgeon on wednesday though. My is different too, you could only see the crack on the side view.

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  4. Tony July 6, 2008 at 2:39 pm #

    Also, when are you leaving for alaska?

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  5. Narc July 7, 2008 at 6:25 am #

    I borrowed that x-ray off the interweb

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  6. kevlar July 7, 2008 at 11:50 am #

    I leave friday. Im climbing for the last day today. Come to the gym.

    You could also see mine on the side view.

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  7. Narc July 7, 2008 at 11:53 am #

    CLIMBING!?!?! Give your finger some rest!

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  8. Ryan July 8, 2008 at 11:23 am #

    I can totally relate over 2 years ago I snapped a band on the top of my left middle finger. Being addicted to climbing I decided to try and climb on it but with just a bunch of tape.

    Next thing I knew I was out of climbing for 6 months and in an orthopedic surgeons office. Now I know to just let it heal and when it doesn’t hurt rest another weak.

    Stay safe

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  9. You Know Who I 'Am' July 8, 2008 at 2:27 pm #

    I told those boys to listen to me and not you – – – clearly I’m the one with the climbing wisdom and you’re the one with the climbing injuries — oh wait, except for when you blew my spot and broke my ankle.

    Good news though, Narc. Kevlar was told by the doctor to keep climbing – the doctor seems relatively relaxed about the injury —

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  10. Tony July 21, 2008 at 3:42 pm #

    Good news narc, just got back from the doc and the bone is no longer broken, but I have PT for the next 3 weeks because I can hardly move the finger.

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  11. Narc July 23, 2008 at 7:16 pm #

    If your finger is still busted how are you going to belay me on my proj??

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