Best Pitch in the World?

I’ve never given it much thought, but Mike Doyle (and many others) contend that the route Serpentine (5.13b) at the Grampians in Australia might just have the best pitch of climbing in the world on it’s second pitch. Read the entire entry for a blow by blow account of his experience.

Or skip to the bottom for this account of the situation once you reach the top of the pitch:

There are no anchors at the top and most people take a victory leap. I’m not big on the victory leaps, in fact I hate falling so I downclimbed to the last piece of protection and asked Malcolm to take the rope tight. I knew that all the guys down below were bugging Malcolm to give me lots of slack and the night before the had talked about how a 60m rope could be tied off to the anchor and the climber could be dropped 30m and pretty much swing in directly to the belay… I felt the rope go tight and let go only to be falling through the air for about 10m, fortunately not 30. I pretty much expected it but it was still good for a laugh.

Below is a “true” victory whip that a climber took on the route after Mike sent
The route ends at the break near the top of the picture…one hell of a victory whip. Photo by Mike Doyle.

Posted In: Sport Climbing
Climbers:
Areas: ,

Subscribe

Subscribe to the RSS feed to receive updates, and follow us on Twitter & Facebook

Leave a Reply