Mixed news out of the climbing paradises of Switzerland.
The good news is that James Pearson has made his 2nd flash of a V13 boulder. I had previously reported that he flashed Ganymede Takeover in Brione, Swizzy. This time around he had set his eyes on flashing The Great Shark Hunt at Chironico and that is exactly what he did:
I had been wanting to try this problem since November 06 but decided to wait until I felt strong enough as it looked like a good contender for a flash attempt. After watching Ben Moon climb it in February, I got psyched and spent the next month training specifically for this problem.
It was a real fight, and I came close to falling on the top easy moves due to numb fingers from the tiny edges but held it together long enough. Topping out was fantastic!
Sadly, with the news of this success comes bad news on the access front. While attempting to finish off the infamous Cart Project (fell off good hold after crux) featured in Dosage IV, James was chased off by the landowner. Apparently climbing is not permitted in the areas of Sonlerto (Kings of Sonlerto?) and Brione which were both heavily featured in Both Dosage III and IV:
“Please DO NOT climb at Sonlerto (Dosage 3 and 4) or Brione (village area). The locals and land owners are VERY angry to say the least and have threatened to spray the boulders with grease if people climb there!!! Talks are under way between local developers and residents to try and negotiate the allowance of climbing in the winter months but sadly, so far nothing has been agreed.These are great areas and there is a chance that access could be agreed but we all need to stay away until further notice. It would be a tragedy to loose these amazing blocs forever!
Thanks for your help.”