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Posted In: Sport Climbing
Climbers: Adam Ondra
Areas: Siurana
Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold spent Saturday romping up big walls in Yosemite. The pair free climbed Freerider on El Cap (6:45 climbing), the South Face of Mt. Watkins (2:40 climbing) and the Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome (5 climbing) in just over 21 hours. More at Climbing.com. So…how was your weekend??
Adam Ondra Working Golpe de Estado (5.15b), 3.7 out of 5 based on 15 ratingsEthan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.
Adam Ondra Working Golpe de Estado (5.15b), 3.7 out of 5 based on 15 ratingsI don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.
Adam Ondra Working Golpe de Estado (5.15b), 3.7 out of 5 based on 15 ratings© 2012 Climbing Narcissist. All Rights Reserved.




This may be the most epic Adam Ondra fit I’ve seen yet.
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then you have not watched the Progression extras.
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That one is pretty bad too. Seems the editor saw some humor in it though panning out hearing his screams echoing around the canyon and the town.
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I liked this video quite a bit but only due to the great footage of Golpe de Estado. The rock on that line is beautiful.
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I know he’s young and extremely passionate about climbing and all but seriously someone needs to tell him to grow the fuck up
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completely agree with you. that screaming at the end is a bit over the top.
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Every time I watch a video with Adam Ondra (which is getting increasingly rare) I always think “Hey maybe he’s grown up or matured a little bit, I’ll go ahead and watch it” *click*, *watch epic crushage*, then without fail *screaming like a pissed off baby tasmanian devil*
I agree with Daustin, he really needs to grow up and I think he’s giving off a terrible image for his sponsors and the sport, I mean I for sure wouldn’t want someone that pisses and moans all the time being my representative.
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It’s really a shame too because I have noticed that Ondra videos are some of my favorites — because of how simple and continuous they’re filmed — up until the scream, which then totally negates any positive aspects of the video and actually makes me kind of angry. It might even sound slightly hypocritical because Sharma, for example, is far from a quiet climber, and I do find that his grunting can get kind of bothersome, but it’s not problematic in the same way as Ondra’s shrieks. Of course, the shrieks are aurally more grating, but given that they’re out of frustration, not exertion, I think what’s so unpleasant about them is the lack of respect they show, in the same way that someone blasting a boombox at a crag is disrespectful. No one else wants to hear that shit. It might be silly, but I can’t help think of the little village they show Ondra staring at the crag from, and how the villagers probably can hear the echo of Ondra’s shrieks. Potential access issues much? If I had to listen to shrieks like that I’d go to the cliff with a chisel or maybe even some dynamite. Really, I don’t know why his dad or whoever belays/films him puts up with it.
In conclusion, Ondra needs to grow the f**k up.
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I think that is a perfect summation, you hit the nail on the head.
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The guy who filmed this, Petr Pavlicek, makes some good points in the comments of this post:
“He is screaming from one reason… when he was small child and climbed and did not make a route, he cried. His other told him “Don´t cry, just fight as much as you can, and if you fail, just scream, or swear… but do not cry..”
So he is doing it…
And he puts incredible energy into his climbing. It is not an anger! adam is most peacefull person I know, honestly…
He is very calm and smiling after his screaming, it is just his way of ventilating his enormous focus / effort on a route… Is it bad? I hope he will remain the same, it is just the beginning of really amazing things, this firs “official” 9b. And Adam knows best how to do it… But of course, you may not like it, but actually it does not matter”
Of course Ondra’s outburst are unseemly, but the reality is that his animalistic drive is what pushes him up hard climb after hard climb. I suspect that if he tried to be more relaxed, i.e. “grow the f**k* up”, he would not be the same climber nor would he have the same level of success.
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I totally understand him screaming in the middle of doing a route and maybe right after a fall on move you can’t seem to stick, because everyone has done one or both of those things. He just seems to carry on way to long. If he is all smiles and sunshine after one of his temper-tantrums the person filming should definitely be showing that, because, if that really is the case, then the cameraman is portraying him in a bad light by spending so much time filming his outbursts. I thought the final cut (definitely not the extras) of Progression did a pretty good job of trying to get both sides of him, the happy go lucky and the frustration we all feel sometimes. I hope he NEVER loses the drive that he has because so few people can have that much passion about something, but no matter what the reason is, no one wants to watch, hear or be around someone that is doing that.
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Valid point. Petr is working on a feature length film about Ondra which I’m sure will do a better job exposing the more “normal” side of him. Should be cool to see once it gets finished.
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I dunno, it’s also kind of made me think of that one friend that you’d play games with when you were a kid (or maybe even older, this kind of temperament seems age-independent to a degree) and he’d beat you some of the time, which was fine, but then you’d beat him and he’d freak out. Just could not handle it. I don’t mean he’d throw a 20 minute tantrum, but like Ondra, would just let out a huge burst of anger, frustration, whatever, and then keep playing and act like nothing had happened right after. So yes, I understand that these shrieky outbursts don’t make him an angry person, but I still think they display a certain lack of respect that in regular games/sports might be called being a sore loser although that term doesn’t make quite as much sense applied to climbing (sore faller?).
Actually a funnier example that I hope some others can relate with (although I don’t know how much crossover there is between people who golfed as children and people who read a climbing website) is sometimes as a kid I’d go golfing with my dad and some of his friends and they weren’t great golfers by any means but liked to get out and walk around and drink a little bit. So anyway, they’d all play pretty bad but be OK with it except one guy, who seemingly had it together for the whole round, winds up hitting a really bad shot and he just snaps, yells a few swears really loudly and maybe even hits his golf bag with his club. But then the next second he’s perfectly calm and says “Daustin I’m sorry you had to see that” and then acts like nothing happened. Yeah Ondra’s like that loose cannon golfer friend of your dad’s yeah.
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don’t know if its acceptable and it is funny on film, but in real life it’s actually quite frightening!
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