There’s been a lot of tongue twisting in the climbing news-osphere about Adam Ondra‘s recent FA of Joe-cita (5.14d) in Oliana, Spain.  While he did climb that specific line on his first try, he had previously climbed a portion of the link-up while climbing other routes.  Granted, he did either onsight or flash the harder parts, but  rules are rules.  He also came close to onsighting Duele la Realidad 2R (5.14d) but had to settle for a 2nd go send.

Get your bets in now for when 5.14d is going to go down first go…

Just a day or two after Daila Ojeda did the FFA of Mind Control (5.14c) at Oliana Nina Caprez succeeded in redpointing the route as well.  She calls the route a “perfect line” on her blog where she also had this to say about the grade:

The grade of Mind Control is really not extreme. If somebody will downgread, why not. But honestly, grades are so unimportant. I’ve had the chance to climb such a fantastic line and I feel so alive and my body is full of energy and power. I can realize my dreams, what else counts in live?

It was a big day on the big wall at Oliana yesterday as both Daila Ojeda and Joe Kinder grabbed repeats of Chris Sharma’s Mind Control¹, a stunning 5.14c most famous for being onsighted by Adam Ondra.  Big Up Productions is still out in Spain so look for footage of all this Spain stuff at, presumably, this year’s Reel Rock Tour.  Footage of Ojeda working Mind Control last year can be seen in this Sterling Rope spot.