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5.14 Trad Ascent By James Pearson

A few weeks old, but this a nice report by James Pearson about his efforts to do the 2nd ascent of an old 5.14 sport route in La Balma, Switzerland called A Denti Tretti on natural gear:

when I first came to look at the route 1 week ago there were cobwebs in the cracks and it had obviously been a long time since anyone’s last visit.  Perhaps its the obvious difficulty in leaving the floor that puts people off, but past that initial section, the route looked just as good, if not better than its popular neighbour.  Even better still, it looked to be relatively well protected, and I decided to give it an on-sight attempt, directly on trad gear!

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Mason Earle’s FA Of Real Talk (5.13+), Lower Mill Creek

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Daniel Jung And Nico And Olivier Favresse Climbing First Ascents In Norway

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Unfinished Business

Steve Bechtel, writing about a first ascent that was done in Wyoming recently:

When Micah first walked up to the climb last year, the face had already been bolted. There were anchors on top. It was a ready-to-climb classic.  Like many of the other hard and great yet-to-be-climbed projects, someone had tried it before. That someone was Todd Skinner.

…snip…

Below is a list of a few of the most significant Skinner projects still awaiting first ascents. This is by no means exhaustive.

Any takers?

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Climbing Banned On Basalt Columns In Armenia

Bad news for anyone psyched about making the trip to Armenia to climb on the incredibly unique looking basalt columns that were on the cover of Rock & Ice a few years back:

By this statement we want to inform all the climbers around the world that climbing on any Basalt Columns of Armenia is banned, so they won’t make expenses and travel a long way in vain.

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The North Face: China Trad Festival

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Will Stanhope Freeing The Finger Of Fate On The Titan

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