The Lowdown – Southeast Bouldering

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[vimeo http://vimeo.com/37378403 w=980&h=551]

| Video Source | ClimbingNarc Video Page

Brooklyn Boulders routesetters Jeremy Bini, Mark Heal, and Garrett Koeppicus, along with Ty and Jeff Landman, take on the boulders of the Southeast.

The Lowdown = Now You Know

A Brooklyn Boulders film
Produced by Louder Than 11

Facebook.com/BKBoulders
http://www.BrooklynBoulders.com

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Posted In: Bouldering
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24 Responses to The Lowdown – Southeast Bouldering

  1. Tkin February 28, 2012 at 11:41 am #

    I hate to say it, since these guys are obviously strong as shit, but Ty Landman definitely pull started on his ascent of God Module….and so did the other guy on his ascent of The Law at LRC (v11). I hate to be that guy, since these guys clearly climb much harder than these problems, but it is quite obvious and I think sets a bad example. It’s analogous to getting an extra step on the 100 meter sprint.

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    • Narc February 28, 2012 at 4:36 pm #

      Ehhh, it’s kind of hard to say really. Both those problems looked legit to me. No real lunging off the ground like you often see in GM vids.

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    • staticreach February 28, 2012 at 5:26 pm #

      Haters gonna hate…video was sick! Climbing was legit! Nice job guys!

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    • DK February 28, 2012 at 6:05 pm #

      Not exactly sure what a “pull start” is, but it doesn’t look like Ty pushed off from the ground at all. Far from “obvious.” In any case, posting video of a send is as honest as it gets. We can all draw our own conclusions.

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    • c'mon February 28, 2012 at 8:58 pm #

      If you didn’t notice, his feet do not cut on a single move…the send was legit

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    • Ethan March 2, 2012 at 12:53 pm #

      HA! Sorry sir, but you’re trippin.

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    • joeyjoejoe March 2, 2012 at 6:57 pm #

      LOL, “pull start.” You noob.

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  2. jason February 28, 2012 at 5:19 pm #

    Gm vids?

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    • Narc February 28, 2012 at 5:20 pm #

      God Module

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  3. Narc February 29, 2012 at 6:14 am #

    It’s pretty astounding how controlled Landman is on God Module. Especially considering that it was his flash go. Just compare it with the guy who sent it right after him.

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    • David February 29, 2012 at 2:28 pm #

      V14 guy climbing v10 easy….same as V5 guy climbing a V1?

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      • Narc February 29, 2012 at 3:11 pm #

        I know what you’re saying, but there is something about this problem in particular. There are basically no feet and that start hold looks ok at first glance but then when you grab it you realize there’s no way to get your fingers behind the good part of the hold. Hence why many people treat themselves to a bit of a jump start when they do this problem.

        I’ve never climbed V10 but I’ve dabbled on things in that range and I can’t comprehend how people get off the ground on this rig. Just another level of finger strength that I will never experience I guess.

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  4. DBS March 2, 2012 at 9:53 am #

    Pretty good video, but kind of unnecessary to hype already overcrowded areas and act like they’re uncovering some great secret spot when these areas have been well-known and heavily climbed for almost 2 decades.

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    • Narc March 2, 2012 at 10:01 am #

      What next, a video about the climbing near Slade, KY people might not have heard of???

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  5. jf March 2, 2012 at 2:15 pm #

    Here (and elsewhere this video’s posted) all the comments ignore the climbing and just talk about the positive opinion these climbers had of each area they visited.

    It doesn’t seem to me that they’re suggesting no one has ever heard of the south. It’s a nice place to boulder, and maybe to some of them that was new. Not everyone has to have an encyclopedic knowledge of every area in order to have a right to an opinion. I’m not from the south, and it’s nice to see it in detail, and to hear someone I respect as much as Ty talk about it being great. If he came to my local area and said it was great (or choss) I certainly wouldn’t get on the internet to rebuke his opinions.

    Climbers are such a friendly bunch in real life, but online the sniveling armchair “it’s mine and you can’t have it” attitude is just absurd.

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    • jf March 2, 2012 at 2:19 pm #

      And since I insulted people for skipping over it and then did so myself, I should add that the climbing in this video shows a variety of problems, is for the most part well-shot, well-edited and enjoyable to watch.

      Also, I suspect anyone lambasting Ty’s start of GM either didn’t watch the rest of the ascent, has no familiarity with his abilities, wouldn’t stand a chance at doing GM on their very first try pull-start or otherwise, or some combination of all three.

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      • Narc March 2, 2012 at 2:21 pm #

        Since I’ve never been able to actually pull off the ground on my few attempts at that problem does that mean my flash go is still in tact? Do you have to be able to get your feet off the ground before you start counting attempts? 🙂

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        • jf March 2, 2012 at 2:24 pm #

          You’d have to talk to the Sheriff on that one. I’m surprised he hasn’t yet written a blog post on Ty’s pull start.

          It does seem up his alley.. if a climber is ultra strong, and climbing something below their limit, they still have an obligation to climb with good ethics.. some would say more of one.

          You and I are excluded, of course. Pull-start dab-factories have a null ethical baseline.

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        • Aaron S March 2, 2012 at 5:48 pm #

          As far as I’m aware your first attempt is once your feet leave the ground. You’re in the clear for a future flash!

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  6. D$ March 3, 2012 at 5:39 pm #

    It is hard to say what is a legit start to GM. Here are two vids showing two extremes.
    First here is a vid of Brad Weaver doing a very legit start-http://vimeo.com/33883464
    (Climb at 0.35)

    And here is another video of GM with a more questionable start. http://vimeo.com/34451485
    It’s hard to call one less legit than the other but there obviously is a little advantage to pull/jump/however starting. In my opinion Ty’s start was kind of in between the two that I posted but I don’t think there is any question to its legitimacy. He completely walked the problem. Just my 2 cents…

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  7. Doug Ianuario March 3, 2012 at 7:28 pm #

    Go climb rocks people, I guarantee me In this vid could do more one arm pull ups then you could dream of. Take off your shamans.

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    • DK March 3, 2012 at 10:16 pm #

      I love that your idea of a good insult is “you can’t do one armed pull-ups and you wear Evolvs.”

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  8. Doug Ianuario March 3, 2012 at 8:09 pm #

    Maybe my starts not as legit but I put a lot of work into that climb. I did have goes where I honestly felt that I was doing the first move better than I did in the send vid. Anyone would be defensive if they were called out. I will go back next season and crush it. In my book, Ty’s send is good, mine not. I always felt uneasy about it. I just don’t want a shit ton of comments about me being a bitch or whatever.

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    • ryan j March 4, 2012 at 12:13 am #

      you are a bitch! but the send is legit nonetheless.

      “establishing” on a problem is more about feel than a specific time frame. easier to judge as the climber than a watcher of a video. the legitimacy of the GM start has been hashed out for many years on the intardwebs and is becoming rather pedantic.

      in a similar vein, but equally boring is the sit vs. squat starts apparent in “between the trees.” do i sit start as often as possible rather than opting for the squat? hell yeah! but i would also NEVER call into question the validity of someones ascent done in a slightly different style that changes the problem almost not at all.

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