Projects: Trad in the New

11 Responses to Projects: Trad in the New

1. 

   Beautiful July 15, 2013 at 5:34 pm #

   I almost cried at the end. Sometimes climbing is so perfect.

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2. 

   sarcasicm July 16, 2013 at 3:08 pm #

   Nice video could have used more footage of top-roping and unclimbed projects though

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3. 

   Boomer July 18, 2013 at 1:52 am #

   Absurd. Establishing R/X trad routes where classic sport climbs should go is for those who are either too lazy to drill bolts or are into redacted. What a waste, this rock could have been enjoyed by so many more.

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   • 

     Andrew Cassidy July 18, 2013 at 9:46 am #

     Whats wrong with measuring contests btw? The NRG is “well” established so there are plenty of routes for people to climb and this probably would not have got any notice if it weren’t for Matt. Also the NRG is at the fore-front of hard traditional climbing in America. This makes it a special place… as opposed to the bastard cousin of the RRG (a sport climbing mecca…. although the New has TONS of sport climbing). I’m almost entirely a sport climber who regularly climbs at the new and watching these kind of videos inspire me to ACTUALLY learn trad. I took the trad climbing at the rendezvous this last spring and led my first trad pitch. Going hard on gear is awesome and I’d like to be able to do it one day.

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   • 

     Seamus July 19, 2013 at 1:26 pm #

     Learn to place gear dude. You might like it.

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     Andrew July 19, 2013 at 4:22 pm #

     You could always top-rope it…

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4. 

   PBC July 18, 2013 at 7:28 am #

   I see no indication that this is an R route. Sure, there is the opportunity to take a big fall but it looks pretty clean on decent gear. Certainly doesn’t seem like an X. If the route can be naturally protected, why place bolts?

   Would bolting this before Matt got to it be as bad as bolting a legit straight splitter? No. But now that it’s established, its there. There are plenty of other 13D sport things to go play on if that’s your style, why feel entitled to have access to everything? Let it inspire you to work on your trad skills.

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   • 

     Liam July 18, 2013 at 7:45 am #

     That is the definition of an “R” route.

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       Ryan July 18, 2013 at 8:16 am #

       Actually, a lot of people get that wrong. “R” does not simply mean “runout.” Sure, that’s part of it, but an “R” rating implies that there is a possibility of getting seriously hurt, even when the climb is properly protected. Based on what I saw, I’d be more inclined to give it a PG13 rating (i.e. good pro, falls may be long, serious injury is unlikely). Some people aren’t into the “PG13” rating though.

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5. 

   sniffles. July 18, 2013 at 10:04 am #

   ‘R’ now roughly translates to “I want this to look more badass for media purposes. Check out my muscles”.

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6. 

   Topanga July 31, 2013 at 6:24 pm #

   He took that route to sendstown!

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