Damn I really liked that. LT11 steppin’ up their game. What a crazy looking route and baller send.
Route looks rad. I’m a little surprised at the footage of the pre-placed gear on china doll, seems like you might as well clip the bolts?
I am really suprised to see mayan do something this ridiculous. Trad leading a sport climb on preplaced gear is ridiculous, unimpressive, and just plain arrogant and damaging.
It is riducous and unimpressive because.. well whats the point of climbing it with preplaced cams?? Unless you suck at placing gear and preplace a bunch of mank into the crack, this is exactly the same as climbing it on bolts. Furthermore, its not really more pure, since she probably used the bolts to get the gear up there to begin with. Even if not, the mere presense of the bolts presents her with a way to escape if she got skeched for some reason.
Also, doing shit like this is a quick way to possibly deface an already bolted route. The rock has already been permanently altered with bolts, why possibly add to the damage with a big old stuck cam or nut, or worse, break a handhold by stuffing a cam inside it?
Mike Patz did this, placing gear, years ago. Called it 5.14R and it was documented in the extras of “The Sharp End” DVD. Short of a deathfall potential even with perfect gear (like the recently bolted Shanti offwidth), bolting cracks is considered really bad form. Its a good watch that explains the concept, at the end even the first ascentionist says “man, its awesome to see that it goes like that, it takes to to that next level, where it short be. hell, take the bolts out”. Also, is this the standard or the full extension? The standard is bolted, the extension is a trad only rig, and ought stay that way:
To preface, I don’t think Mayan doing the route with preplaced pro needs to be justified at all – she can do whatever she wants, and i don’t see why someone having placed bolts should prevent her from climbing the route in a style she likes – even if it’s not the style of the FA. reminds me of the video of arnaud petit doing black bean in ceuse on gear. that’s on limestone, no less, but god damn if that is not one of the coolest videos i’ve ever seen.
SO despite thinking guidoprincess is wrong in principle, it appears she may also be wrong on a more objective level. From the wikipedia page on Mount Arapiles: “There is a strong tradition dating to the ’80s of bringing the route down to your level, and it is now commonplace to rap in and pre-place gear.” granted, the wording there is a bit bizarre, and wiki may be a dubious source. but at least there seems to be some evidence that mayan’s send is well within the ethic of the local area, so in short, princessguido’s confusingly negative post is a bunch of baloney
Great. im glad you cleared that one up. Now, since I can climb in whatever style I want, and bolting traditionally protected routes is bad forum, I am off to hangdog up your project at the Red River Gorge, ductape hooks to the fragile crimps on the way down, and start taking good old fashioned whippers! Who cares if I used the bolts to get up there in the first place, or that its a fragile route that im going to blow apart, its all about good style right?
Guido – no disrespect, but you are not a nice person.
Dang…with all of those ticks on PITG, you’d think she really was in a gym.
Did I see a pink tick mark? Putting colored tape next to the good holds would be easier to remove.
The local ethic at Araps is the harder routes are mostly done with fixed (cause it’s never coming out) or preplaced gear. The pink tick mark is a piece of tape. Placed there by one of the Aussie girls working the route .
that video was very inspiring… I hate to be the one to ask this question, but how hold is myan?
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