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Pretty epic double dab on Esperanza
Well, clearly the grazing of the boulder mat didn’t effect the move. Bumping the wall behind him could be considered to have effected the send, but the least “contrived” understanding of any boulder problem is that all the rock around it is “on.” Clearly, due to the overhanging nature of the problem, he wouldn’t use the wall behind him for most of the send, but if his foot bumps that wall it should be all good. Think when people top out through small openings in Hueco sometimes, their backs scrape against the adjacent rock, but nobody would suggest that this invalidates a send.
Besides, he’d already grabbed the end jug. I don’t think he’d fall off that hold if his spotter jumped up and grabbed his legs at that point.
Ugh, immediately noticed my two incorrect usages of “effect” after hitting submit. Please go easy on me.
The whole point about dabbing is that you never know what really helps and doesn’t help so it should never be allowed if you want your send to “count”. Once you open the door to arguments like “if his foot bumps the wall it should be all good” the slope starts to get very slippery.
Everything about bouldering is contrived. Starting sitting in the dirt, eliminates, some guy whining about pullstarting last week, eliminates, drop offs and the worst of all… guys pointing and yelling ‘dab!!!111 zomg!!’
I’m embarrassed for you guys.
I’ll let Davy Jones take the lead on the issue.
“And secondly, you must be a pirate for the pirate’s code to apply and you’re not. And thirdly, the code is more what you’d call “guidelines” than actual rules. Welcome aboard.”
So what about pure highball lines from standing starts? Yeah, you should probably go back to your 5.9 trad climbs. No need to let reality affect your opinion.
Pure highballs from stand starts… are way cool. It’s too bad there aren’t more of them. Nothing to dab up there!
Thanks for the 5.9 zinger. I will admit that I do enjoy a good 5.9 trad climb, but seldom with a rope.
Dude is obviously a beast. Kept is feet on for the huge move on D Sea . . . never seen that before. Surprising he took that as a send on Esperenza.
unless its a FA or he clearly wouldnt have climbed the boulder w/o it who cares, ‘invalid send’ , what does that even mean, it’s just climbing man, don’t get all heavy about it 🙂 !!!
All climbing is contrived on some level
This is incorrect. Ground up, on sight, top out trad is not contrived. Although I realized many boulderers struggle with the concept of ‘onsight’ since every hold is pre-fondled, brushed and chalked from the ground with 3 dudes telling you what to do. And if the problem is in Bishop, Hueco or RMNP you’ve already seen 7 videos of it anyway.
… Says the guy who just sat through a 13 minute video of bouldering in the most climbed on and videoed destination on the planet…
hah. Guess I had that coming. I will admit to watching the entire 13 minutes of this vid, I thought it was excellent. I typically can’t make it through most bouldering vids no matter the length.
But since we’re nit picking, I would say that while Hueco is popular, and a wonderful place to climb, it is neither the most climbed on nor most videoed destination on the planet. You’re still 1-3 though, star of the baseball team.
Then where would you say is the most filmed climbing? Everest? Font? The sport climbing areas in Spain? Yosemite? It doesn’t really matter I’m just curious.
Well it’s hard to quantify ‘most videos.’ I’d guess it is definitely bouldering and a place with a long season and no access restrictions. I’d guess Bishop, Font and maybe even Rocklands over Hueco.
This . . . is not a very intelligent comment.
A dab is a dab especially in hueco they didnt give the sen to ashima when she cut on the last move of martini right and touched the tree with her foot. so when he double dabed on esperanza its a no send if its a no send for ashima
At the end of the day this should not matter to any (or at least realistically very few) of us. Whether or not he “gets” the send is not going to change anyone’s life. And to think that bickering about the implications of his dab will change something or prove a point is also a waste of effort. Just watch the video and enjoy it, or don’t watch it. There is just no need to waste your time arguing over something that holds no gravity in your life. Thanks for the vid narc.
Thank you. I was surprised to see that my comment got down-voted as much as it did. It seems like when boulderers watch videos, they’re on the edges of their seats looking for anything that can “invalidate” a send, such as a tiny dab on a bouldering pad. The dude just climbed a v14, something I’d bet not a single person on this comment thread will ever do, and all anyone can do is yell “DAB!” Makes climbers look pretty petty.
For the record, when Ashima was getting called out for dabbing the tree while working on Martini Right, I was on this website saying the same thing I’m saying now, that all this “DAB!” yelling is childish and distracting. I posted a video of Ben Moon climbing the problem, where his shoulder clearly bumps a tree branch:
Nobody called out Ben Moon, and rightfully so – the brush against the branch didn’t affect his climb in any way, so why worry about it? Also – why worry about it to begin with? It’s just a dude climbing a boulder problem. He’s not running for president.
In taking the “it’s just a dude climbing a boulder” viewpoint to diminish proper style as being insignificant degrades established ethics and ultimately the entire concept of bouldering.
Makes me think of something JE wrote over on b3bouldering.com
“Remember, next time your foot kicks the pad, your spotter says, “You’re still good!” and you keep climbing, anxiously running home to update your scorecard, there is a 9 year old girl, probably sitting in her 3rd grade class in New York City, who left Hueco Tanks a dab shy of Right Martini.”
climbing is not a sport. its a stupid contrived endeavor with guidelines that some are obliged to follow and others are not. we could all just walk along the ground in a roof, or around the cliff or boulder. if the ground were a sideline, and this was a football forum, his touchdown would be no good. there are many climbing instances where those that don’t follow the “rules” or “ethics” are given the benefit of the doubt and are good to go. as it is, if he’s good with it, we have to accept it. there is no presiding referee for a “sport” with so many accepted grey areas.
close enuff for the touchdown?
How do you guys ‘give’ Ashima credit for Power of Silence when she got lifted to the start holds… but deny the send on Right Martini for brushing a twig? I really do not understand that.
It’s like we need some kind of myopic Sheriff to tell us how to think and what the rules are.
Um, he’s got the best footwork I’ve seen in a dude. Like, ever.
Remember also, this is the guy that took an extra few years to do Sleepy Rave because he didn’t want to use a kneepad, even though they were generally accepted, because he’d “set a personal goal for himself.”
Last: he explains over on this other forum that he did get it dab-free afterwards, but the only good footage was the dabbed go. So there you go.
His post: http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=4&MessageID=1560&Replies=6#NewPost
Very well then, good on him for that. I had a suspicion this might be the case.
Now don’t we all feel dumb. Thanks for actually doing some research, while the rest of us all internet FAILED.
I think that video is the most “solid” climbing I have ever seen. Even Daniel Woods doesn’t climb this composed. This dude made every single problem look like he was warming up on V4. Precise, composed and super relaxed. I’m really impressed by this one.
Thx for information.
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