This route looks sooooo f’in cool. Well done.
What a great move towards the end! Being tall really looks like it pays off on this one
my hands were sweating so badly i couldn’t turn the volume nobs on my speaker.
Chilled with Hayden this past weekend. Said he toproped the route and never whipped on any of the gear! Also told me he didn’t think the dyno was all that hard either
I preferred seeing Nick Martino work this route. Nothing against Kennedy whatsoever, but it’s a more interesting climb for a shorter man (to watch), and to me there’s something more enjoyable about seeing someone project a trad route and whip on thin gear. I hope Nick gets his send. It will be a different achievement than Hayden’s. Same route, different climb for different people.
Sick route, anyway.
I prefer watching Hayden doing the route over Nick simply because of the way Hayden describes the moves, without much focus on the danger associated with placing gear or finding the proper “head space” which seems to be what most of the narrations focus on in The first ascent series.
Interesting. You find the discussion of that part of the mental aspect a detraction?
Not necessarily, but there is difference in the subject matter of the discussions when it is addressed to a climber from a climber than when a climber is trying to describe a route to a non-climber. When addressing a non-climber I think the discussions focus to much on not falling and being dangerous. We all know climbing is dangerous and that in certain situations you cannot afford to fall but those are only a few aspects of the sport and in my opinion not even the important ones.
Do you climb on gear?
I have a few times but I’m primarily just a lowly sport climber.
I see. I know Hayden Kennedy can lead boldly, onsight on gear. But I think I read that he toproped this route first before leading it. Whereas I believe Martino was trying to do it all ground-up, which is a big difference. I could be wrong about these details but they are influencing my perspective.
That said, I think if you’re emphasizing alpine or big-wall climbing, danger and onsight ability are both huge factors in your skillset. Those are my interests so I definitely have to struggle with the mental aspect to push myself on gear. I will only usually try to lead on gear at least a whole number grade below what I can do on bolts, and leading at your limit (onsight!) on gear is a big deal, IMO.
But I hear what you’re saying nonetheless.
I’d be surprised if anyone that has worked on this rig has done so ground up
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