Hayden Kennedy Climbing Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-)

12 Responses to Hayden Kennedy Climbing Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-)

1. 

   colin May 14, 2012 at 2:32 pm #

   This route looks sooooo f’in cool. Well done.

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2. 

   great ending May 14, 2012 at 6:44 pm #

   What a great move towards the end! Being tall really looks like it pays off on this one

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3. 

   Noah Cacayorin May 15, 2012 at 12:28 am #

   my hands were sweating so badly i couldn’t turn the volume nobs on my speaker.

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4. 

   Will May 16, 2012 at 2:18 am #

   Chilled with Hayden this past weekend. Said he toproped the route and never whipped on any of the gear! Also told me he didn’t think the dyno was all that hard either

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5. 

   Andrew Krueger May 23, 2012 at 3:55 pm #

   I preferred seeing Nick Martino work this route. Nothing against Kennedy whatsoever, but it’s a more interesting climb for a shorter man (to watch), and to me there’s something more enjoyable about seeing someone project a trad route and whip on thin gear. I hope Nick gets his send. It will be a different achievement than Hayden’s. Same route, different climb for different people.

   Sick route, anyway.

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     Hugo Watt May 24, 2012 at 3:27 am #

     I prefer watching Hayden doing the route over Nick simply because of the way Hayden describes the moves, without much focus on the danger associated with placing gear or finding the proper “head space” which seems to be what most of the narrations focus on in The first ascent series.

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6. 

   Andrew Krueger May 24, 2012 at 10:07 am #

   Interesting. You find the discussion of that part of the mental aspect a detraction?

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     Hugo Watt May 24, 2012 at 7:13 pm #

     Not necessarily, but there is difference in the subject matter of the discussions when it is addressed to a climber from a climber than when a climber is trying to describe a route to a non-climber. When addressing a non-climber I think the discussions focus to much on not falling and being dangerous. We all know climbing is dangerous and that in certain situations you cannot afford to fall but those are only a few aspects of the sport and in my opinion not even the important ones.

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     • 

       Andrew Krueger May 24, 2012 at 10:36 pm #

       Do you climb on gear?

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         Hugo Watt May 24, 2012 at 10:41 pm #

         I have a few times but I’m primarily just a lowly sport climber.

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           Andrew Krueger May 24, 2012 at 10:51 pm #

           I see. I know Hayden Kennedy can lead boldly, onsight on gear. But I think I read that he toproped this route first before leading it. Whereas I believe Martino was trying to do it all ground-up, which is a big difference. I could be wrong about these details but they are influencing my perspective.

           That said, I think if you’re emphasizing alpine or big-wall climbing, danger and onsight ability are both huge factors in your skillset. Those are my interests so I definitely have to struggle with the mental aspect to push myself on gear. I will only usually try to lead on gear at least a whole number grade below what I can do on bolts, and leading at your limit (onsight!) on gear is a big deal, IMO.

           But I hear what you’re saying nonetheless.

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7. 

   Narc May 25, 2012 at 7:04 am #

   I’d be surprised if anyone that has worked on this rig has done so ground up

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