its bouldering, I just didnt think it looked v14. the feet looked too big and there looked to be a lot of jugs. but I dont know s#@twitter-17823323:disqus
Actually, two others climbers did this line and said that it’s not v13 but rather v11… For example Romain Desgrange said :
“Et hop un petit tour à Fionnay, ça faisait longtemps! Pour ce jour, je jette mon dévolu sur “Le long & lent silence of the moleskine”, V13, ouvert par Fred Moix himself et répété par Paul Robinson jusque là … Bon comment dire, de toutes petites réglettes crochetantes, avec de gros talons !:;,§/.? Ca n’a pas tenu longtemps un petit quart d’heure pour regarder les mouv’s un run et hop voilà ! Même si ce type de blocs & d’efforts reste à 100% mon style je pense qu’une cotation plus basse serait nettement plus appropriée”
….. and Paul Robinson said: “This climb felt hard low end 8b boulder. the climb is a cool traverse with some pump factor added in. 7b to 7b+ to 8a to 7c seems about right.”
It said V14 in the title of the video on vimeo which is why I initially referenced it as such when I posted it. Turns out that was never the case for this problem.
the line looks horrible and bit pointless imo
loading...
so stupid. it makes me angry.
loading...
This video makes me hate climbing.
loading...
So you climb the arete, then climb down the face… then climb the face again?
loading...
its bouldering, I just didnt think it looked v14. the feet looked too big and there looked to be a lot of jugs. but I dont know s#@twitter-17823323:disqus
loading...
You guys act like you’ve never seen a traverse before.
loading...
how DARE you call that a traverse
loading...
http://www.boldering.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=650
loading...
Actually, two others climbers did this line and said that it’s not v13 but rather v11… For example Romain Desgrange said :
“Et hop un petit tour à Fionnay, ça faisait longtemps! Pour ce jour, je jette mon dévolu sur “Le long & lent silence of the moleskine”, V13, ouvert par Fred Moix himself et répété par Paul Robinson jusque là … Bon comment dire, de toutes petites réglettes crochetantes, avec de gros talons !:;,§/.? Ca n’a pas tenu longtemps un petit quart d’heure pour regarder les mouv’s un run et hop voilà ! Même si ce type de blocs & d’efforts reste à 100% mon style je pense qu’une cotation plus basse serait nettement plus appropriée”
loading...
….. and Paul Robinson said: “This climb felt hard low end 8b boulder. the climb is a cool traverse with some pump factor added in. 7b to 7b+ to 8a to 7c seems about right.”
loading...
It said V14 in the title of the video on vimeo which is why I initially referenced it as such when I posted it. Turns out that was never the case for this problem.
loading...
😉
loading...
enjoy!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62748&fb_source=message
loading...