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Past Polls
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- How Is My Site? 0 votes
- How many pairs of climbing shoes do you own? 219 votes
- What Makes the Pizza at Miguel's in the RRG so Good? 12 votes
- Thoughts on the new American Gladiators?? 19 votes
- How do you feel about paying to climb outdoors? 73 votes
- What do you do when you Dab? 144 votes
- How do you feel about Auto Belay devices in Climbing Gyms? 34 votes
- Is it wrong to inflate grades in sponsored advertisements? 77 votes
- Round 1: Chris Sharma vs Daniel Woods 116 votes
- Round 1: Paul Robinson vs. Ty Landman 111 votes
- Round 1: Dave Graham vs. Joe Kinder 115 votes
- Round 1: Ethan Pringle vs. Kevin Jorgeson 111 votes
- Round 1: Lisa Rands vs. Beth Rodden 111 votes
- Round 1: Alex Puccio vs. Alex Johnson 110 votes
- Round 1: Dean Potter vs. Alex Honnold 113 votes
- Round 1: Tommy Caldwell vs. Sonnie Trotter 125 votes
- Round 1: Five Ten vs. La Sportiva 104 votes
- Round 1: Evolv vs. Madrock 99 votes
- Round 1: ATC vs. Gri-Gri 102 votes
- Round 1: CCH Aliens vs. Black Diamond Camalots 92 votes
- Round 1: Organic vs. Revolution 95 votes
- Round 1: Petzl vs. Metolius 101 votes
- Round 1: Prana vs. Patagonia 97 votes
- Round 1: The North Face vs. Mountain Hardwear 103 votes
- Round 1: RMNP vs. Mt. Evans 90 votes
- Round 1: Hueco Tanks vs. Joe's Valley 92 votes
- Round 1: Bishop vs. Squamish 91 votes
- Round 1: Little Rock City vs. HP40 91 votes
- Round 1: Red River Gorge vs. New River Gorge 92 votes
- Round 1: Rifle vs. Smith Rocks 84 votes
- Round 1: Yosemite vs. Indian Creek 90 votes
- Round 1: Devil's Lake vs. Shawangunks 89 votes
- Round 1: Rockclimbing.com vs. Mountainproject.com 89 votes
- Round 1: Momentum Video Magazine vs. Dr. Topo 92 votes
- Round 1: Climbing Magazine vs. Urban Climber 94 votes
- Round 1: Rock & Ice vs. Alpinist 91 votes
- Round 1: Dosage 4 vs. King Lines 93 votes
- Round 1: Return2Sender vs. First Ascent 84 votes
- Round 1: Simon Carter vs. Keth Ladzinski 89 votes
- Round 1: Jim Thornburg vs. Greg Epperson 91 votes
- Round 2: Chris Sharma vs. Paul Robinson 125 votes
- Round 2: Dave Graham vs. Ethan Pringle 120 votes
- Round 2: Beth Rodden vs. Alex Puccio 119 votes
- Round 2: Alex Honnold vs. Tommy Caldwell 129 votes
- Round 2: La Sportiva vs. Evolv 108 votes
- Round 2: Gri-Gri vs. Black Diamond Cams 108 votes
- Round 2: Organic vs. Petzl 114 votes
- Round 2: Prana vs. Mountain Hardwear 117 votes
- Round 2: RMNP vs. Hueco Tanks 103 votes
- Round 2: Bishop vs. HP40 100 votes
- Round 2: Red River Gorge vs. Smith Rocks 102 votes
- Round 2: Yosemite vs. Shawangunks 112 votes
- Round 2: Rockclimbing.com vs. Momentum Video Magazine 98 votes
- Round 2: Climbing vs. Rock & Ice 100 votes
- Round 2: Dosage 4 vs. First Ascent 98 votes
- Round 2: Keith Ladzinski vs. Jim Thornburg 101 votes
- Round 3: Chris Sharma vs. Dave Graham 103 votes
- Round 3: Beth Rodden vs. Tommy Caldwell 103 votes
- Round 3: MVM vs. Climbing Magazine 94 votes
- Round 3: Dosage 4 vs. Keith Ladzinski 96 votes
- Round 3: Hueco Tanks vs. Bishop 100 votes
- Round 3: Red River Gorge vs. Yosemite 102 votes
- Round 3: La Sportiva vs. Gri-Gri 96 votes
- Round 3: Petzl vs. Prana 98 votes
- Round 4: Chris Sharma vs. Tommy Caldwell 102 votes
- Round 4: La Sportiva vs. Petzl 91 votes
- Round 4: Bishop vs. Yosemite 97 votes
- Round 4: Momentum Video Magazine vs. Dosage 4 90 votes
- Round 5: Chris Sharma vs. La Sportiva 67 votes
- Round 5: Dosage 4 vs. Yosemite 66 votes
- Round 6: Chris Sharma vs. Yosemite 141 votes
- Is it ok to dig out a landing with a shovel? 145 votes
- How do you belay with your Gri-Gri? 74 votes
- Beta Whoring... 88 votes
- Best U.S. Climbing Magazine Website 53 votes
- Should I renew my subscription to Climbing Magazine? 48 votes
- Dean Potter?? 10 votes
- What was the main factor in choosing your current Crashpad?? 101 votes
- Better Competition Format For Spectating 105 votes
- Favorite Climbing Temps? 105 votes
- Who's Your Pick To Win ABS Nationals This Weekend (Men's)? 94 votes
- News Of Chris Sharma Sending 5.15a 160 votes
- Will You Be Ordering The 2008 8a.nu Yearbook? 110 votes
- Are you interested in watching climbing competitions live on the internet? 146 votes
- Have increased airline baggage costs affected your climbing travel plans? 96 votes
- What are your thoughts on the new version of the online Deadpoint Magazine? 57 votes
- Do you have any interest in reading news about European Lead and/or Bouldering World Cups?? 84 votes
- Mental Fitness? 194 votes
- Thoughts on the DPM Photo/Video Annual 42 votes
- Favorite Climbing Movie Of 2009? 71 votes
- How Many Climbing Magazine Do You Subscribe To? 196 votes
- How many indoor comps will you compete in this winter?? 63 votes
- Climbing In The Olympics?? 851 votes
- Which Discipline Of Climbing Would Make The Best Olympic Sport? 580 votes
- High End Grade Discussions 103 votes
- How Much Would It Cost For You To Give Up Climbing Forever? 628 votes
- How Long Have You Been Reading ClimbingNarc.com? 321 votes
- Upgrading to the GriGri 2? 359 votes
- Which episode of First Ascent: The Series would you be most excited to see? 539 votes
- Which Reel Rock Film Are You Most Interested In Seeing? 449 votes
- Are you ready for the Spring climbing season? 350 votes
- My project for spring is a... 502 votes
- More Impressive Feat? 448 votes
- Which climber had the best month of March? 700 votes
- What music do you prefer when watching climbing films? 342 votes
- How far is the commute to get to your nearest regular climbing area (indoor or outdoor)? 218 votes
- Can a boulder problem have a stand start if it was first done from a sit? 281 votes
- Which 2011 Reel Rock Film Are You Most Interested In Seeing? 247 votes
- Should time be used to break ties in sport climbing competitions? 147 votes
- Would you like to see a PCI Pro Clinic event in your home gym? 122 votes
- My project for fall is a... 136 votes
- What's your favorite U.S. climbing magazine? 516 votes
- Are rising gas prices affecting your spring climbing plans? 296 votes
- Which 2012 Reel Rock Film Are You Most Interested In Seeing? 791 votes
- Can you onsight a route if you've tried part of it before? 1042 votes
Most voted
- Can you onsight a route if you've tried part of it before? 1042 votes
- Climbing In The Olympics?? 851 votes
- Which 2012 Reel Rock Film Are You Most Interested In Seeing? 791 votes
- Which climber had the best month of March? 700 votes
- How Much Would It Cost For You To Give Up Climbing Forever? 628 votes
- Which Discipline Of Climbing Would Make The Best Olympic Sport? 580 votes
- Which episode of First Ascent: The Series would you be most excited to see? 539 votes
- What's your favorite U.S. climbing magazine? 516 votes
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5 comments
A resounding "no" to onsighting after having done part of a route. I bet the answer would be a bit different if asked about the term "flash".
The whole point of flashing or onsighting is that you've never done ANY part of the route/problem before. And the passage of time doesn't change anything. If you have ever climbed any part of it, then it's not a flash. Or an onsight. Period. End of story.
I agree with you, but the fact remains that the term "flash" is used by different climbers in different ways while the term on-sight is generally agreed upon by all climbers (except gumbies who have no clue what they are talking about.) Plenty of boulderers "flash" problems after having touched holds on the problem.
I have a hunch this is in response to a poll and commentary going on on another, alphanumeric, site. Someone had gone and climbed a route with 2 anchors, lowering off the route first go (onsight) at the mid-anchor (7c) and then coming back later and doing the full length of the route first go, and calling that an onsight of the 8b that is the full route. This seems a problem more in dense sport climbing areas, like those in Spain where linking the first half of 'Route A' with the secound half of 'Route B' which is 10 feet to the left constitutes a new route. The discussion over on that other site spiraled out of control (ethics! are there really ethics? I mean, the guy reported it honestly, but called in an onsight. We have a different definition of that word sure, but I still know the truth about what he did and can judge what label to point on it)
If Ondra had climbed Southern Smoke from the slab start, and then come back and done the Direct first go, would it still be a flash? an onsight? New plan - lets just put the routes further apart.
haha, alphanumeric site