Nalle Hukkataival is on a roll:
Just climbed La Force Tranquille V15 in Magic Wood!! Had a devastating fall from the easy top slab because a hold broke, but managed to pull it together and climb it again next try all the way to the top! One of the best hard boulders in the world!!
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Nalle Hukkataival, writing on his blog about a problem called The Understanding that he just opened in Magic Wood, Switzerland:
This beautiful project caught my eye the very first time I saw it on my first trip to Magic Wood back in 2004 and being one of the most striking lines in Magic Wood, it’s hard to walk past it without at least giving it a thought. It’s one of the first lines ever brushed in Magic Wood and over 10 years later it still hasn’t seen an ascent.
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Until today!
No mention of the all important grade, but looking at Hukkataival’s 27 Crags ticklist one can see that he has done almost 50 V14s or harder so it will be interesting to see where he comes out on this problem.
Dave Graham, writing for sponsor Five Ten:
Life has some pretty crazy twists and turns in the last couple months. This time around the story starts with my epic skiing accident that crunked out my left knee, then delves into the making of The Island Volume One, and then follows my last month of country hoping out here in Europe. Life is good! I hope you all enjoy!
I’m not sure what happened, but Graham somehow fails to mention that one time I said what’s up to him at SCS Nationals. Five Ten must have edited that out I guess.
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On a related note, Graham is in Switzerland where he did the 2nd ascent of The Full Circle, a V14 established by Nalle Hukkataival. Graham comments on 8a:
Super syked to climb this rig. Crazy tension moves, resistant, and on not the best grips, shits not easy! Brushed it up with Moix and crew, then battled it out over next three rainy days, and somehow sent it!
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STOKED! First hard boulder post ski accident/ knee destruction. 2nd ascent, just hours after Nalle did the FA.
A few weeks old, but this a nice report by James Pearson about his efforts to do the 2nd ascent of an old 5.14 sport route in La Balma, Switzerland called A Denti Tretti on natural gear:
when I first came to look at the route 1 week ago there were cobwebs in the cracks and it had obviously been a long time since anyone’s last visit. Perhaps its the obvious difficulty in leaving the floor that puts people off, but past that initial section, the route looked just as good, if not better than its popular neighbour.
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Even better still, it looked to be relatively well protected, and I decided to give it an on-sight attempt, directly on trad gear!
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Jimmy Webb closed out his Swiss trip in fine style by doing the FA of La Rustica, a potential V14 in Valle Bavona:
One of the coolest projects i’ve ever climbed. Big thanks to Carlo for showing me this thing. Climbed it basically on my last day, last literal try.
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Couldn’t ask for a better finish to my trip.
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