Climbing Areas Archives: Yosemite

The Dawn Wall: Episode 3

Posted December 10, 2013 at 10:56 am · Comments { 0 } ·
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→ The Nose Wipe∞

Posted December 10, 2013 at 8:09 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Dave Campbell, as to why he got involved in the annual clean up effort on El Cap appropriately named “The Nose Wipe”:

Yvon Chouinard sums it up well in the movie 180° South: “The whole purpose of climbing something like Everest is to effect some sort of spiritual and physical gain. But if you compromise the process you’re an asshole when you start out and an asshole when you get back.
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” Abandoning garbage on or around El Capitan tarnishes a coveted process and displays weakness in both character and style. I was an asshole for leaving a mess at the base of the sacred Big Stone.
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The Dawn Wall: Episode 2

Posted December 5, 2013 at 1:52 pm · Comments { 0 } ·
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The Dawn Wall: Episode 1

Posted December 5, 2013 at 7:50 am · Comments { 0 } ·
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→ The Nose In A Day And Freerider In 3∞

Posted November 7, 2013 at 9:41 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Hazel Findlay, after doing her third free route on El Cap:

Having freed three lines on El Cap now, with Freerider supposedly the easiest, I have to say that there really isn’t an easy way of freeing El Cap, and it’s a real achievement to even get up it at all.

In addition to her recent ascent of Freerider, Findlay has also freed the PreMuir and Golden Gate over the past few seasons.

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Yanks Crank in Yosemite Valley, Bouldering’s Birthplace | Lost in North America, Ep. 4

Posted October 17, 2013 at 12:04 pm · Comments { 3 } ·
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→ Seek And You Shall Find∞

Posted October 17, 2013 at 12:00 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Katie Lambert, writing on her blog about a summer spent climbing some of the hardest routes in one of my favorite places on Earth, Tuolumne:

The exposure was surreal and it was starting to give me the creeps. I thought to myself that all I had to do was mantle up, make a couple of moves and get to the next bolt.  Except the holds were dirty and covered in lichen and every time I pulled up with a heel hook into the mantle my hands would slip a little and every time I would climb back down and way back left to the last bolt 15 feet behind me. I did this about 5 times, each time looking back at my 9.
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1 rope draped across sharp knobs, wondering if the sideways fall into the unknown below the roof would cut my rope. Eventually I returned to the belay, leaving behind two lowerout biners and we rapped to the ground. John Bachar Lives played over and over in my head as we walked down the trail and I was more intrigued than ever.
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This piece really took me back to my trip to Tuolumne and made me realize that no matter your skill level anyone can have that quintessential Tuolumne experience whether it’s on a 5.5 or on a 5.13.  It seemed fitting to finally post this on the day the national parks re-open.
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