Climbing Areas Archives: Yosemite

→ New Free Route On Liberty Cap∞

Posted June 6, 2013 at 9:52 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Since I’ve only been posting bad news out of Yosemite, it seems like now would be a good time to post about something good like this new free route on Liberty Cap established by Lucho River and Cedar Wright:

Lucho Rivera and Cedar Wright have completed the first all-free ascent of the southwest face of Liberty Cap above Yosemite Valley. The two men redpointed the 16-pitch route, tentatively called Mahtah (the Native American name for Liberty Cap), on May 31, with Wright leading the majority of the crux pitches and Rivera following free.

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→ More On Muir Wall Accident∞

Posted June 6, 2013 at 7:37 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Chris Van Leuven, in an excellent account of the accident that killed Mason Robinson on El Cap’s Muir Wall a few weeks ago:

Mason Robinson attended Columbia Falls High School and was on the cross-country team. He grew up exploring the mountains and rocks surrounding his home and became an experienced rock and ice climber.
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He was known for having robust lungs, which helped him link up multiple peaks in a day. He also sang and played the banjo.

Powerful photos from Cheyne Lempe.

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→ Another Death On El Capitan∞

Posted June 4, 2013 at 8:00 am · Comments { 13 } ·

More bad news from the flanks of El Capitan:

A twenty eight year old climber died in a rock climbing accident on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park yesterday afternoon, Sunday, June 2, 2013. Felix Joseph Kiernan, from London, England, was climbing on the East Buttress of El Capitan, a popular climbing route in Yosemite Valley, when he was struck by a rock.
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Stay safe out there everyone.

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Salathe – El Capitan, Yosemite

Posted May 29, 2013 at 7:15 am · Comments { 0 } ·
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Granite Earth

Posted May 27, 2013 at 10:23 am · Comments { 14 } ·
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→ Tragic Death On El Capitan∞

Posted May 21, 2013 at 7:31 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Tragic news from high on El Cap this past Sunday:

An experienced climber, Mason Robison was leading the 27th pitch of the 3,000-foot granite wall at about 9 a.m., when a large rock flake holding a piece of safety gear broke loose. The rock gave way while Robison, 38, was climbing at 2,300 feet above the monolith’s base, and severed a rope that was fastening him to a belay station manned by his climbing partner. He fell past the station before a haul rope caught him and seized the fall, but the injuries were fatal.

SuperTopo has a good thread about the situation as well.

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→ Midnight Lightning’s Lightning Bolt Gets Chopped∞

Posted April 30, 2013 at 9:55 am · Comments { 50 } ·

James Lucas, writing about why he removed the iconic chalk lightning bolt outline from beneath Midnight Lightning in Yosemite:

Over thirty years, with every passing ascent, the lightning bolt became less of a testament to a remarkable ascent, of lightning striking at midnight.  The chalk transformed into a trademark, another tourist attraction for passing climbers. The magic left the bolt years ago.

The magic may have left the bolt for Lucas “years ago”, but myself and many others don’t appear to share that sentiment.  Each time I’ve visited the Valley and seen the Columbia boulder and its trademark lightning bolt there was a sense of history that came along with seeing it.  I agree that the chalk lightning bolt had become a trademark, but to me this was a good thing, not a bad thing.

The new bolt remains slightly duller than the last incarnation.
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  How long will it remain that way?
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 Does climbing need these trademarks?

My guess is that it won’t stay this way for long.

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