Climbing Areas Archives: Australia

Christian Tartaglia Repeating Hukkataival’s Cherry Picking (V13)

Posted July 19, 2012 at 6:31 pm · Comments { 5 } ·
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Ian Dory Sending Wheel Of Life

Posted July 3, 2012 at 6:06 am · Comments { 6 } ·
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Wheel Of Life Repeated By Ian Dory

Posted June 20, 2012 at 4:30 pm · Comments { 12 } ·

Ian Dory is back in Australia again with Dave Graham and Nalle Hukkataival after a successful 2011 trip that he recapped in this excellent report.  In that post Dory mentions his efforts on Dai Koyamada’s Grampians testpiece The Wheel Of Life:

Overall the climb is a combination of 5 boulder problems: v9, v12, v9, v11, v8. After climbing with James Kassay I have been incredibly motivated to come back and take it down next trip.
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But what James has also taught me is that this climb takes time and is truly hands down difficult.
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It looks like Dory’s motivation paid off as he was able to complete the full problem for its likely 7th ascent a few days ago.
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Dave Graham Repeats Wheel Of Life

Dave Graham Repeats Wheel Of Life

Posted June 11, 2012 at 7:56 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Success for Dave Graham on one of Australia’s most well-known and most difficult rock climbs

Read full story · Comments { 1 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }

Oz

Posted May 23, 2012 at 10:25 am · Comments { 10 } ·

This incredible photo essay by Keith Ladzinski from his trip to Australia last year with Dave Graham, Nalle Hukkataival and Ian Dory would make a great coffee table book don’t you think?  (h/t Josh on twitter for the link).

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Nalle Hukkataival Bouldering In Australia

Posted February 14, 2012 at 6:00 am · Comments { 4 } ·
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Another Repeat Of The Wheel Of Life

Posted October 7, 2011 at 12:00 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

According to his 8a scorecard Australia’s Ben Cossey has repeated Dai Koyamada’s The Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia. Cossey registered the ascent as V141, and in response to posts on the Australian forum Chockstone he had this to say about the grade:

V16 represents the highest difficulty yet climbed by humans, even then these few problems are not confirmed. V15 takes the very best climbers a massive amount of effort to climb and yet there are not much more than a handful of confirmed ones in the world.
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The Wheel doesn’t really have any one move that you couldn’t find on, say, a V7.
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The hardest moves on it are in my opinion on Sleepy Hollow and yes, you have to bone down for sure because you’ve just climbed from the bottom but they aren’t crazy hard and certainly not in terms of V16 or even V15 hard.

He then goes on into more detail about the history of the problem, gives his opinion on kneebars and talks about the difficulty of the individual boulder problems that comprise Wheel Of Life.
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  1. The problem was first opened at a suggested grade of V16 ↩
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