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Nina Williams On Dead Can’t Dance (V11) – Uncut
Daniel Woods Sending The Wheel of Life
→ Reflecting On The Wheel∞
Interesting piece on Vertical Life about The Wheel Of Life, one of the most repeated hard boulder problems in the world:
It wasn’t that long ago – sometime after Fred Nicole’s ascent of the final link in the cave puzzle, Sleepy Hollow, in 2000 – that I can remember walking from the bottom of the cave to the top, feeling many of those well-fondled, chalked-up holds that miraculously link together and speculating about the eventual ascent of the entire line. At the time I thought it would take a generation or two. How wrong I was.
→ Daniel Woods Repeats The Wheel Of Life∞
Daniel Woods has done the 9th ascent of Dai Koyamada’s The Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia. On his 8a scorecard he suggests a route grade of 5.14d and says that this problem is, “in my top 3 roof/adventure climbs that I have done”. Woods is now on his way to Salt Lake City where he will compete this week in the Psicobloc deep water soloing comp.
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→ Alex Megos Repeats Wheel Of Life∞
In what should be surprising news to no one at this point, Alex Megos has made quick work of Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians:
Though he hasn’t been here for long Megos hasn’t wasted any time, racking up what is almost certainly (and by a long way) the fastest ascent of the Wheel of Life (35/36) in the world-famous Hollow Mountain Cave.
James Kassay Climbing Wheel Of Life Direct
→ Ammagamma Sessions∞
Keith Bradbury, who is perhaps best known for his work on films 85 Days in Font and Between The Trees, is back in the climbing game after a long break. This also means he’s back in the blogging game, and he just got done writing a pretty fascinating series of blog posts about his efforts to repeat the well-known Grampians V13, Ammagamma.
The catch? Bradbury, who had previously climbed V13 some years back, was coming off a long break from climbing and had only climbed as hard as V7 before starting to project Ammagamma.
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I won’t spoil the end except to share this bit from his unsuccessful 4th session on the problem. Sound like anything you might do?
Here I was on my honeymoon and I was 100% focused on a boulder problem. I told Emily that I didn’t think I could leave without climbing Ammagamma. I told her I’d change my flight to NZ so that I could stay in the Grampians another week to keep on trying.
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What was I really saying? She told me that I just needed 1 good go, that I was going to do it this session.How could I reconcile my own selfish pursuit with the fact that I was here with my wife? I didn’t know if I really would stay. I’d said it to gauge a reaction… but just saying it had made me ask bigger and deeper questions.
Check out the 5 part series by clicking the links below:
- Jared: Use to visit this site daily. Miss you Narc! Hope ...
- chris marcolini: Did you ever find the falling block?...
- Nate: The narc lives on, at least as an archive. Miss th...
- Climbing Controversy: Behind the Decades-Long Conflict Roiling the Sport’s Elite - Swiss Cycles: […] the world’s first consensus 5.15b in 2...
- Climbing Controversy: Behind the Decades-Long Conflict Roiling the Sport’s Elite - Swiss Cycles: […] that they didn’t see repeats for decad...
- J: Two slings half inch webbing 24 inch sewn slings w...
- Animull89: So gnarly that he did that twice...I remember the ...
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