Will Gadd:

If you “train” more than you do your sport then you’re probably confusing the reasons you train. Which is OK; “training” can be a sport.
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Crossfit is a sport in my mind, and I respect those athletes because they train with meaning and intensity and then (mostly) leave that in the gym.
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But there’s some dissonance between thinking you’re training for a sport and then never actually doing the sport you’re training for.
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Sound like anyone you know?

Sonnie Trotter provides five tips for getting better at climbing rooted in the following premise:

The worlds most accomplished sport climber and boulderer Adam Ondra has recently completed his first one arm chin up according to Planet Mountain.com.   This fact only reinforces what I (and dozens of other climbers and coaches) have said for years, the key to climbing hard is not in the arms at all.
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  It’s mostly in the fingers and core.