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Paul & Heather Robinson: Sinless City

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La Bocina – El Chonta, Mexico

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3rd Ascent Of Dreamcatcher

Chris Sharma’s iconic Squamish route Dreamcatcher (5.14d) got its third ascent (Sharma, McColl) last week from Canadian Ben Harnden according to this posting on the local message board.  Apparently Harnden is of the Brave & Humble™ variety so it’s unclear how much spray about the ascent will make it to the internet, but I, for one, can never get enough media from this route.  I guess we might just have to settle for re-watching Sharma and McColl climb this route.

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Two Repeats Of Bunda De Fora (5.14d) By Muller, Kinder

Lev Pinter’s Bunda De Fora (5.14d) at the limestone crag Acephale in Canada’s Bow Valley recently saw two repeats at the hands of Josh Muller and Joe Kinder.  Kinder has a great blog post about the process of working this route that includes pictures of both him and Muller attempting it that is well worth checking out. Here’s how Kinder framed his mentality when approaching the route as a project:

This trip to The Bow Valley was a test.  It was an experiment to gun it for one route, Bunda De Fora.  The drive up was a little anxiety ridden with the idea (that I kept to myself), that I was going to buckle down on one hard project, period.
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 I mean there were surely plan b, but this was what I wanted.  The climber mentality of “this is the most important thing in the world” is so obnoxious sometimes.
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 I mean we aren’t saving anyone or doing anything other than an activity that makes us happy and satisfies us.  Ridiculous I know.  But… this is truly what it takes to be invested in hard climbing.

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Adam Ondra Frees “Change” (5.15c)

Adam Ondra Frees “Change” (5.15c)

More history from Adam Ondra

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2012 Lead World Cup Men’s Highlights – Atlanta

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2012 Lead World Cup Women’s Highlights – Atlanta

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