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A funny thing happened earlier this week: Adam Ondra “finally” repeated Biographie in Céüse and barely anyone seemed to notice.
The 2014 IFSC Lead World Cup continues this weekend with a stop in Briançon, France
PlanetMountain caught up with Alex Megos after his one day ascent1 of Biographie (5.15a):
I warmed up by checking out the moves on Biographie, this took circa 1 hour. Then I started to make the attempts, and had circa 30 – 40 minutes rest between each go. Conditions were very good and my first feeling was: I’m going to send it today.
His thoughts on why he didn’t try to flash or onsight the route are interesting to read as well.
After another disappointing finish in a Lead World Cup in Chamonix where he failed to make it out of the qualifiers due to skipping a clip on the 2nd qualifier route, Adam Ondra made his way to Gravere, Italy and onsighted TCT (5.14d):
nice satisfaction after the lost Chamonix World cup. A tribute to Tito Traversa first ascended by Stefano Ghisolfi
This marks Ondra’s 3rd 5.14d onsight, all of them coming since July 2013.
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