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Matt Hong Repeating Memory Is Parallax (V14)

Posted February 18, 2012 at 6:25 am · Comments { 4 } ·

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Double Mind Control (5.14c) Send Day

Posted February 17, 2012 at 2:06 pm · Comments { 11 } · Photo: Daila Ojeda on Mind Control by Keith Ladzinski

It was a big day on the big wall at Oliana yesterday as both Daila Ojeda and Joe Kinder grabbed repeats of Chris Sharma’s Mind Control¹, a stunning 5.14c most famous for being onsighted by Adam Ondra. Big Up Productions is still out in Spain so look for footage of all this Spain stuff at, presumably, this year’s Reel Rock Tour.
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Footage of Ojeda working Mind Control last year can be seen in this Sterling Rope spot.

Mind Control now has two check marks on the unofficial list of reasons a hard route can be downgraded—it’s been onsighted and Joe Kinder climbed it a woman climbed it—so look for that in the near future. ↩

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Daila Ojeda, Joe Kinder

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Oliana

“Fuerza My People”

Posted February 16, 2012 at 2:52 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

In a post on Five Ten’s site Dave Graham reflects in his usual style on the last few months of 2011 which culminated with his FA of Memory is Parallax (V14):

In a day and age where each boulder problem is argued to be less and less significant (its not that hard, its not that cool, its not that tall, its not what I like, no one will go there, blah blah blah) I find it truly important to share when things do matter. When something I have done a boulder is significant.
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I took a lot from this experience as a person, even though I just climbed a rock, it was a massive milestone, and a true personal accomplishment, but it was because of how it fit into my life, where I was when I did it, and where I came from before I started trying it.
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Dave Graham

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Sonnie Trotter Profile

Posted February 15, 2012 at 12:12 pm · Comments { 2 } ·

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Brushing Up On Some History

Posted February 15, 2012 at 7:14 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Certain climbing areas have iconic problems that everyone remembers their experience with and at the Buttermilks outside Bishop, CA, The Iron Man Traverse (V4) is one such problem.

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