Daniel Woods has done the 9th ascent of Dai Koyamada’s The Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia. On his 8a scorecard he suggests a route grade of 5.14d and says that this problem is, “in my top 3 roof/adventure climbs that I have done”. Woods is now on his way to Salt Lake City where he will compete this week in the Psicobloc deep water soloing comp.
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→ Daniel Woods Repeats The Wheel Of Life∞
Rocklands Bouldering Crisis
Rocklands bouldering access is in jeopardy
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More 5.14s By DiGiulian & Claassen In South Africa
More hard sends by Sasha DiGiulian and Paige Claassen in South Africa
→ The Circuit Interviews Daniel Woods∞
Daniel Woods sits down with The Circuit for an interview while he is in Australia:
So it’s just funny to see this stagnant plateau that we’re sitting at right now. There’s honestly things that I’ve done that I think are 8c+ but I want to repeat other things (at the 8c level) before I can push those things and say “Ok, these things are definitely a step above the past generations test pieces”. That’s when it’s right to say “OK, they’re harder” you know.
→ The World According To Kai∞
Nice piece from the latest issue of DPM about 13-year-old Kai Lightner:
How then, did a young black child from the flatlands of North Carolina come to find his passion in a sport largely dominated by white people that his mother would never introduce him to? Kai isn’t the only black rock climber, but he does currently represent a vast minority.
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One look around the landscape of the sport and it’s impossible to overlook the homogenously white outdoor crowd. Climbing, and outdoor recreation in general, is not part of black culture but the reasons for that are murky.
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By all accounts from people I know who have met him, Lightner is a great kid.
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Honnold, Wright Enchain California 14ers by Bike, Foot, And Free Solo
I’m not sure what’s crazier, free soloing something like Half Dome or climbing 15 14ers in California in three weeks without using a car:
Over three weeks and one day, Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright pulled off a unique adventure in their home state of California: enchaining all of the state’s 14,000-foot-plus peaks (and then some), using only two bikes and their own two feet for transportation. Along the way during this remarkable journey from Mt.
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Shasta to Mt. Langley, the two biked more than 700 miles, hiked at least 100 miles, and climbed over 100,000 vertical feet, often via difficult technical rock climbs.
→ If You’re Not An Access Fund Member, What Are You?∞
Louder Than 11’s Jordan Shipman:
The sad truth, however, is that less than 1% of the climbing community are members of the Access Fund. There are millions of climbers out there in the US but the Access Fund only has around 10,000 members or so.
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Given the number of people who seemed to be very concerned about growth in climbing, overcrowding at crags and environmental impact when it was announced that climbing wouldn’t be in the 2020 Olympics—I find this last fact pretty shocking.
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I mean, what the f*ck?
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- Climbing Controversy: Behind the Decades-Long Conflict Roiling the Sport’s Elite - Swiss Cycles: […] the world’s first consensus 5.15b in 2...
- Climbing Controversy: Behind the Decades-Long Conflict Roiling the Sport’s Elite - Swiss Cycles: […] that they didn’t see repeats for decad...
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J: Two slings half inch webbing 24 inch sewn slings w...
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Animull89: So gnarly that he did that twice...I remember the ...
