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→ Tommy Caldwell Injured, Off Dawn Wall Project∞

Posted November 2, 2013 at 7:36 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Tommy Caldwell, writing on The Facebook:

Disaster strikes! Haul bag took a 200 plunge while clipped to the back of my harness.
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Hauling hook fail. It was a bit jarring. Looks like a costochondral seperation. I am headed home to try and heal as quickly as possable.

Best of luck to Tommy as he recovers.
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 What this means for the 2013 effort on the Dawn Wall is unclear, but between the 16 day government shutdown and this, the odds of the route going this year don’t look real great from here.

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→ Paul Robinson Repeats Jaws II∞

Posted October 31, 2013 at 8:01 am · Comments { 24 } ·

After having done five 5.14’s including the only repeat of Dave Graham’s 5.14+ Psychedelic, Paul Robinson took it up a notch with a repeat of Jaws II (5.15a) in Rumney, NH yesterday:

I spent two days falling off of the top and finally today, 10/30, I managed to make the fifth ascent of jaws II, 5.15a. This marks my hardest sport climb to date and a dream realized, to climb both v15 and 5.15. The psyche is high as I leave Rumney on a high note.

∞ · Comments { 24 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }
More Hard Flashes By Jimmy Webb

More Hard Flashes By Jimmy Webb

Posted October 29, 2013 at 7:36 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Jimmy Webb continues his great 2013 with more hard flashes in Leavenworth

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→ Three 5.14d’s In One Day By…Guess Who∞

Posted October 28, 2013 at 8:36 pm · Comments { 7 } ·

Adam Ondra is set to compete in the upcoming Lead World Cups in Valence, France and  in Kranj, Slovenia, but before doing that he’s made a stop in the Frankenjura where he’s done three 5.14d’s in a single day according to his 8a scorecard.

He started off with a second go repeat of The Elder Statesman followed by a second go repeat of The House Of Schock, and then he finished up the trifecta with a repeat of Sever The Wicked Hand.  Not content, as usual, he then finished up the day with a second go repeat of Wut zum Leben (5.14b).

Not bad.

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→ 5.14c For Eva Lopez∞

Posted October 24, 2013 at 12:02 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Great to see this news about 42-year-old Eva Lopez repeating Potemkin, a 5.14c in Cuenca, Spain that she actually bolted but did not get the FA of.
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→ Interview With Dorothea Karalus∞

Posted October 24, 2013 at 8:58 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Vertical Life catches up with Dorothea Karalus after her FA of In The Clouds (V12) in the Grampians:

The boulder has two perfect and very obvious starting holds and follows a beautiful line of very small horizontal crimps with a sequence revolving around a tiny crimp and a gaston flake in the end. It is rare that you find such a pure crimp boulder that is not awkward and sharp! With the exception of the first move all the five to six moves are hard and uncompromisingly powerful: I tried various drop-knee variants, but the footholds are just too sparse and bad for that.

 

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→ Petzl Responds To Joe Kinder Situation∞

Posted October 23, 2013 at 8:15 am · Comments { 42 } ·

Petzl, one of Joe Kinder’s sponsors, weighs in on Junipergate:

But as actions speak louder than words, we’re encouraged that in addition to paying a fine to the Forest Service, Joe has also decided to donate $1,000 to the Sierra Nevada Alliance, whose mission is to protect and restore the natural resources of the Sierra Nevada for future generations while promoting sustainable communities. Joe will also donate a week of his time to tree planting and other service in Yosemite National Park.
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…snip…

We appreciate Joe’s apology and his willingness to back it up with action.
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We believe that every mistake is an opportunity for growth and learning. With this in mind, we will be funding a new communications program in partnership with the Access Fund.

Sure seems like some good is going to come out of this after all.

∞ · Comments { 42 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 0 }
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