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→ The Professionals∞

Posted November 12, 2013 at 10:32 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Justin Roth, writing on The Stone Mind:

From what I’ve seen, however, the professional climber’s life is less glamorous than many imagine and more like the jobs that most of us work: full of trade-offs and sacrifices.

I found myself nodding my head in agreement throughout, recalling many experiences I’ve had these past few months living in the ultimate professional climber bubble.
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→ White Noise Repeated By Paul Robinson∞

Posted November 12, 2013 at 8:02 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Paul Robinson has done the 4th ascent of Daniel Woods’ White Noise (V15) in Wild Basin, RMNP, CO, commenting on his 8a scorecard:

2 days. 4th ascent. had some of the most perfect climbing conditions on it ever today! hard 8b+ or easy 8c boulder? such cool climbing and a rad traverse! was good to still have some rumney endurance for the top!

Update:  The following day Robinson returned to Wild Basin where he repeated The Grey (V14).

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Jimmy Webb: Fear The Beard

Posted November 11, 2013 at 7:57 am · Comments { 0 } · Photo: Jimmy Webb on The Penrose Step

More of the same from Jimmy Webb

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→ Can Climbers Think More Clearly About Ethics?∞

Posted November 7, 2013 at 12:30 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Peter Beal weighs in on Junipergate:

I think Joe has received enough of a shellacking from everyone else and I consider him a friend so I am not going to deliver a sermon on why cutting the tree down was a bad idea. But I am going to take issue with his defenders who are among other things  betraying a fundamental lack of understanding of how the sport of climbing actually works.
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Fundamental to this is an understanding of the principal issues at stake in making ethical decisions, issues that many, in fact too many, internet commenters seem willfully ignorant of.
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→ The Nose In A Day And Freerider In 3∞

Posted November 7, 2013 at 9:41 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Hazel Findlay, after doing her third free route on El Cap:

Having freed three lines on El Cap now, with Freerider supposedly the easiest, I have to say that there really isn’t an easy way of freeing El Cap, and it’s a real achievement to even get up it at all.

In addition to her recent ascent of Freerider, Findlay has also freed the PreMuir and Golden Gate over the past few seasons.

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Daniel Woods: Climbing, Bouldering And Motivation

Posted November 4, 2013 at 8:28 pm · Comments { 0 } ·
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→ Daniel Woods Does His Hardest Boulder Yet∞

Posted November 4, 2013 at 7:58 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

After doing the original earlier this year, Daniel Woods has done a low start to Dave Graham’s  The Ice Knife (Once V15, now seems to be V14) at Guanella Pass, CO to yield what he considers to be his hardest problem yet:

Every attempt was a gamble and I had to just give it my all. For most of my ascents, I can pin point when I am going to send.
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This one was not the case. I just convinced myself that one day would be the “lucky” day and I would never have to go back again.

Woods spent some 13 days working the problem before succeeding which, when you think about it, is really not that long in the grand scheme of things.  Imagine what he could do if he had to spend multiple years to complete a project.
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 Can a boulder problem that hard even exist?

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