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Mission Accomplished

Mike Anderson, writing on his blog after climbing his first 5.14c, Daniel Woods’ Mission Impossible in Clear Creek Canyon, CO, at the age of 37:

Even as I write this a couple days later, it’s hard for me to put into perspective. I started climbing in the early 90’s when 5.14c was the end of the rating scale. It didn’t exist in the US until 1992. The fact that I’ve worked my way to that grade is surreal.
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What’s curious is that I’m not surprised to have done the route. As soon as I started working on it, I felt that I was up to the challenge.
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Whether deliberate or not, I had been training for this route for a decade, and now I believed I would do it, in time.

You can see a nice video of Mike on the route here.

Mike, along with twin brother Mark, is the author of a training book called The Rock Climber’s Training Manual.  If I were better at actually following a workout plan I would do a more in depth review of it, but I can tell from loosely following the workouts that there is some good information to be had.  Also, the authors religiously follow the plan and they both crush despite having considerable grown-up obligations outside of climbing.  If you are interested in improving how you train for climbing this book is well worth checking out.

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Alex Puccio Sends The Swarm

More hard sending for Alex Puccio

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Hueco Tanks Public Use Plan Under Review

Melissa Strong, who owns and operates the excellent Wagon Wheel Co-opt in Hueco Tanks, brings news that the Public Use Plan that lays out guidelines for access to Hueco Tanks is under review:

On January 27, 2015 about 40 people joined together for the first meeting in a series of six to review the Public Use Plan, PUP, implemented in 2000 by Texas Park and Wildlife Department, TPWD, in Hueco Tanks State Park & Historic Site, HTSP&HS.

These meetings were sparked for many reasons including the discussion of local access being limited due to the PUP and according to some because of climbers.   It is true many climbers frequent The Park but the limited access of the PUP gives everyone the same equal rights of accessing Hueco Tanks.

The outlook from the perspective of us climbers does seem ok, but this is definitely something for us to keep an eye on. Many thanks to Melissa, Climbers of Hueco Tanks Coalition, the American Alpine Club and the Access Fund for their work on this.

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Sachi Amma Smashes Spanish Sport Climbing

Sachi Amma closes out his trip to Spain with an incredible ticklist

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Mike Doyle Repeats Necessary Evil (5.14c)

Mike Doyle, writing on his blog about becoming “the oldest, shortest, weakest and least talented climber” to repeat the rarely-repeated Chris Sharma testpiece Necessary Evil (5.14c) in Arizona’s Virgin River Gorge:

I’ve had quite a few people say they think it’s amazing that I work full time and was able to climb this route. I really do appreciate that and yes, I do work a lot but honestly that’s not the part I am most proud of. I’m proud that this route was hard for me and I did it.
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I set myself up pretty well to be able to get out once during the week and on weekends. The community in Vegas stepped up to support me and made it possible. Everyone is different and has different ‘distractions’ in their life. I don’t hold myself above anyone else because I work full time and can’t climb at a peak level all the time. It’s a choice I made, continue to make, and a lifestyle I accept. My work is just my distraction.

Work is a distraction for a lot of us, it’s just that for the vast majority1 of us we don’t climb 5.14c when we aren’t distracted.  I say well done to you, Mike, and congratulations!
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You can see some video of Mike working the route here.

  1. Dare I say all?
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Petition To Save Geyikbayiri

Bad news about potential mining at the Turkish sport climbing paradise, Geyikbayiri:

Rock climbing at Geyikbayiri, one of biggest and the most famous sport climbing areas in Turkey, may be at risk due to a project that received official permission at the end of last year to explore the possibility of mining in the area. Should marble suitable for quarrying be found, this would affect circa 350 of the 1000 routes at Geyikbayiri, in the sectors Cesme, Sarkit, Mağara, Anatolia, Dragon, Güzel Manzara, Posaidon, Ottoman, Mevlana, Barbarossa, Akdeniz and Ekos. At present the mining research has not yet started and a grass-action climber’s protest has sprung up against this recent development.

You can sign the petition here.

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More 5.14 Onsights (And Near Onsights) For Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra has been busy doing Adam Ondra-like things of late, both in Spain and in Canada

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