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Ashima Shiraishi – The Cleverness Of Youth

Posted January 24, 2014 at 11:57 am · Comments { 0 } ·
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→ 10 Questions With Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson∞

Posted January 23, 2014 at 10:36 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Nice interview with Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson by The Adventure Journal:

I think if climbers took a moment to learn more about what we do, how much we accomplish, and how small of an organization we actually are, a lot more people would join and see their $35 membership as a bargain. Fact is, the majority of our funding comes from individual climbers. If climbers didn’t support us, we wouldn’t be here, period. One of my favorite things is when a climber who has known about us for a long time, and thinks we’re big and powerful, comes to visit our office. There is often a look of surprise and slight disappointment on their face – they can’t believe how small we actually are but they don’t want to offend me by saying so.
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So funny. We definitely punch way above our weight, which I’m really proud of.
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We are doing a lot with a little, so climbers should be confident that their money is being used wisely.
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→ El Sendero Luminoso Q & A With Alex Honnold∞

Posted January 23, 2014 at 8:40 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Alpinist caught up with Alex Honnold for a little Q & A about his recent free solo of El Sendero Luminoso in El Potrero Chico, Mexico:

I used to be scared of spiders but I kind of got over it. I mean, with a route like El Sendero, I definitely felt some anxiety or nervousness beforehand, but I think a lot of that comes with experiencing something new. I didn’t know how it would go because I’d never done anything like it before. Stepping into the unknown is always a little unnerving. But I wouldn’t necessarily call that scary, I’d call it more stimulating than anything.

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→ Chris Webb Parsons. Representing.∞

Posted January 21, 2014 at 7:53 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Really nice interview by Simon Carter with Aussie Chris Webb Parsons:

Oh, my thumb. I use it like another finger. When I first started climbing I was reading about how to get stronger, about finger boarding etc.
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I figured out that there was a lot of strength in my thumb and I remember sitting in school, my maths class, and I was just mucking around on the edge of the desk and I was playing with my fingers and I had my thumbs on the edge of the desk and I was like I wonder if you could use that as a crimp?
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So I began twisting my thumb and really stretching them, every day, stretching them. I remember they were really hurting. But I just kept crimping the edge of the desk and began to use it on certain holds.
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→ Like A Ballerina∞

Posted January 16, 2014 at 6:06 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Alex Honnold, after soloing the sustained 1,500+ ft. 5.12 El Sendero Luminoso in El Potrero Chico, Mexico:

“It felt pretty straight forward,” he says. “Once I started up, I was like this is awesome. I didn’t blow a single foot—like a ballerina.”

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→ Climber Accused Of Murder In Carderock Death∞

Posted January 15, 2014 at 7:25 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Bizarre and sad story at Maryland’s Carderock:

A Virginia rock climber has been charged with manslaughter after allegedly attacking a man with a claw hammer at Carderock Park in Montgomery County.

A reader had emailed me about this a couple weeks ago under the initial assumption that the deceased, Geoffrey ‘Carderock Geoff’ Farrar, had died in a climbing accident.
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 That was obviously sad enough, but to have it take this kind of turn is even more unfortunate.
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→ La Lune∞

Posted January 14, 2014 at 8:35 am · Comments { 0 } ·

After leaving empty handed last year, Jonathan Siegrist returns to Las Vegas and makes quick work of his project in Arrow Canyon, La Lune:

 I invested so much in this route and spent so many hours in 2013 dreaming about it. It was very difficult for me to walk away without success last year.
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It feels strange to have it done now, especially considering how damn hard I thought it was after last season.
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Could I have improved this much?
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Maybe I was completely destroyed mentally and physically last season and all I needed was a fresh start? I’m really not sure to be honest, and after being prepared for war against this seemingly undefeatable opponent, to claim victory after such a short battle almost seems unfair; it’s almost as though I wanted the process to last longer.

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