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→ Melissa Le Nevé Repeats World’s First 5.14b∞

Posted May 15, 2014 at 10:17 am · Comments { 2 } ·

PlanetMountain has the interview with Melissa Le Nevé after she became the first woman to climb the first 5.14b in the world, Wolfgang Güllich’s Wallstreet in Germany’s Frankenjura:

I really wanted to try this route for two reasons: first of all because i really like the history and this route and with it Wolfgang Güllich set an important milestone in the history of sport climbing. The other reason why I really wanted to climb this route is connected to the its name, Wallstreet reminds me of Pink Floyd and their album The Wall.

Now we’re talking.

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Melissa Le Nevé

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Frankenjura

→ Jeff Lowe∞

Posted May 14, 2014 at 9:09 am · Comments { 1 } ·

John Meyer, writing in The Denver Post about climbing legend Jeff Lowe:

A legendary mountain climber renowned for his athleticism, grace and creativity in the 1970s and 1980s, Lowe was credited with an amazing 1,000-plus first ascents. He didn’t just do things others couldn’t, he did things others couldn’t imagine, including an audacious climb on the killer North Face of the Eiger in the Swiss Alps.
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Solo. In winter.

Now, because of an unknown neurodegenerative disorder with symptoms similar to amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (ALS), he lives in a wheelchair with a breathing tube in his nose. The disease is slowly killing him, but he is facing death with the same spirit that made him a mythic figure in mountaineering.
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Maybe the way he faces death will help others live better.

Hoping the best for Jeff and his family.
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Jeff Lowe

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→ Petzl RocTrip Photo Contest∞

Posted May 14, 2014 at 8:03 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Cool contest going on right now by Petzl to win a trip to the Antalya, Turkey portion of the upcoming 2014 Petzl RocTrip. Mrs. Narc and I went to Antalya at the end of 2012, and we really loved it.

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Coxsey, Hojer Win 2014 Bouldering World Cup In Grindelwald

Posted May 11, 2014 at 5:48 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

The 3rd stop on the 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup circuit took place this weekend in Grindelwald, Switzerland with Germany’s Jan Hojer winning his 2nd gold medal of the season and the UK’s Shauna Coxsey winning her long-awaited first gold medal.

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Akiyo Noguchi, Alex Puccio, Anna Stöhr, Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Jan Hojer, Jernej Kruder, Joel Zerr, Juliane Wurm, Kilian Fischhuber, Lizzy Asher, Miura Hawkins, Rebekka Stotz, Rei Sugimoto, Shauna Coxsey, Tsukuru Hori

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→ Action Directe (5.14d) In A Day By Alex Megos∞

Posted May 6, 2014 at 6:31 am · Comments { 0 } ·

PlanetMountain caught up with Alex Megos after he repeated the legendary Action Directe (5.14d) in just a few hours this past weekend:

Yes, the thought [of trying to flash the route] had occurred to me but I then quickly decided that this was fairly unrealistic. The dyno at the start is known to be really difficult and it’s proved to be a big problem for many of those who’ve repeated the route and are by far better at dynos then I am. Climbing it in a day was a big enough challenge!

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