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→ Nalle Hukkataival Climbs Hard Multipitch∞

Posted June 25, 2014 at 10:12 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Not content with climbing the hardest boulder problems in the world, Nalle Hukkataival decided to get in the multipitch game with a free ascent of the route Silbergeier in Rätikon, Switzerland:

We managed to climb the legendary multi-pitch ‘Silbergeier’ in Rätikon! Partnered with Tomi Nytorp, I climbed the whole route free on June 21st, after having checked out the pitches briefly over 3 days. Quite the experience as it was my first real multi-pitch! Afterwards we got to enjoy the view from the summit on a picture perfect summer day before rapping back down. What a good time and huge respect to Beat Kammerlander for opening such an incredible route!

Silbergeier features difficulty up to 5.13d/5.14a along six pitches of runout limestone climbing.  You can see footage of Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat on the same climb here.

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→ Waggoner Takes The Reins at USA Climbing∞

Posted June 24, 2014 at 11:47 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Climbing Business Journal:

USA Climbing, the National Governing Body for Competition Climbing, is proud to announce that Kynan Waggoner has been named the Chief Executive Officer of the organization.

Well deserved.

Kynan has been a big supporter of the LT11 broadcasts of USA Climbing national events that I’ve been a part of, and I look forward to harassing him more at future events.
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 He’s also pretty creative when it comes to thinking of things to do with a shovel while out at the boulders, so there is that as well.

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Muir Valley Project

Posted June 24, 2014 at 7:55 am · Comments { 1 } ·
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Kim, Schubert Win 2014 Lead World Cup In Haiyang

Posted June 24, 2014 at 7:48 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Jakob Schubert and Jain Kim win the opening event of the 2014 Lead World Cup

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Noguchi, Hojer Win 2014 Bouldering World Cup In Haiyang

Posted June 23, 2014 at 9:26 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Akiyo Noguchi and Jan Hojer continue their brilliant 2014 Bouldering World Cup season with gold in Haiyan

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Alex Honnold – Live True

Posted June 18, 2014 at 2:40 pm · Comments { 6 } ·
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→ First 5.14c For Nina Caprez∞

Posted June 18, 2014 at 8:30 am · Comments { 1 } ·

27 year-old Swiss climber Nina Caprez has done her first 5.14c with a repeat of Hélix au pays des merveilles at France’s Pic Saint Loup:

“I fell in love”, Nina raves about the line. “This huge limestone cave was one of the best things I’ve ever seen in my life. The quality of rock is unbelievable: beside pure tufas you have perfect crimps, pockets…” From the moment she abseiled down into the cave ‘Pic de Saint Loup’ north of Montpellier, France, she wanted to climb on the huge fat tufa in the middle of the wall. “And I was a lucky girl – there was a route that was topping out on this huge tufa – the Hélix.

There is some footage of her on the route that can be seen here.

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