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PlanetMountain caught up with Alex Megos after he repeated the legendary Action Directe (5.14d) in just a few hours this past weekend:
Yes, the thought [of trying to flash the route] had occurred to me but I then quickly decided that this was fairly unrealistic. The dyno at the start is known to be really difficult and it’s proved to be a big problem for many of those who’ve repeated the route and are by far better at dynos then I am. Climbing it in a day was a big enough challenge!
After a brief vacation to Spain I’m back in the States trying to get caught up on everything1. Until I can get fully caught up, you can enjoy this interview I did with Crux Crush which ran while I was gone. I enjoyed how this one turned out.
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Tommy Caldwell, writing in Rock & Ice:
My greatest hardship would be the ordeal in Kyrgyzstan where four of us were kidnapped by Islamic militants for six days. It’s a long, complicated story but, in short, we and our captors were hunted by the Kyrgyzstan military. We abandoned our food and warm clothes and hid out under boulders and in holes in the ground. We eventually escaped when I pushed one of our captors off a cliff and we made a run for the nearest military outpost.
It’s interesting to think about how Caldwell’s ensuing career of incredible big wall free ascents might have been different had the trauma of Kyrgyzstan not happened.
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