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→ Climbers Buying Up More Land In Kentucky∞

Posted June 3, 2013 at 8:06 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Big news for climbers visiting the Red River Gorge in Kentucky:

The Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC) and Access Fund are thrilled to announce the acquisition of 309 acres in Beattyville, Kentucky. Named the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, the land includes several miles of cliff line, some of which has been developed but with the vast majority of it awaiting discovery and development.
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There is potential for more than a dozen individual crags and hundreds of high-quality routes.
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The RRGCC is looking for the support of climbers in paying back the $245,000 purchase price, something they have had success with in the past with the recently paid-off 750 acre Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve.

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→ NPS Authorizes Fixed Anchors In Wilderness∞

Posted May 15, 2013 at 11:30 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Big news from the Access Fund:

After decades of work, the Access Fund received notice yesterday from National Park Service (NPS) that the agency has issued final national policy authorizing fixed anchors in wilderness. This policy—Director’s Order #41—affects many of the country’s most important climbing areas such as Yosemite, Grand Teton, Zion, Joshua Tree, and Canyonlands National Parks.

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→ Climbing Banned At Castle Rocks, ID∞

Posted May 14, 2013 at 9:28 am · Comments { 0 } ·

More bad access news, this time from Idaho:

On April 17, 2013, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in Idaho announced that all rock climbing activity will be banned on its 400-acre portion of the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area, citing the need to protect cultural resources.

…snip…

The BLM’s decision to ignore the same climbing management plan it helped create is totally unnecessary and unjustified. The Access Fund, Boise Climbers Alliance, Eastern Idaho Climbers Coalition, and the American Alpine Club are appealing BLM’s April 17th decision, but we need your help!

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→ Climbing Banned On Basalt Columns In Armenia∞

Posted May 7, 2013 at 9:11 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Bad news for anyone psyched about making the trip to Armenia to climb on the incredibly unique looking basalt columns that were on the cover of Rock & Ice a few years back:

By this statement we want to inform all the climbers around the world that climbing on any Basalt Columns of Armenia is banned, so they won’t make expenses and travel a long way in vain.

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Rumbling Bald: Open Access

Posted April 18, 2013 at 2:10 pm · Comments { 0 } ·
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Red Rocks: Open Access

Posted April 15, 2013 at 2:16 pm · Comments { 2 } ·
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Rib Mountain Access

Posted April 10, 2013 at 10:24 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Great news for boulderers in my home state:

On January 11, 2013, the ERD determined that bouldering was feasible, and DNR will now allow bouldering at Rib Mountain State Park with crashpads and chalk. However roped climbing and fixed gear are still prohibited in the quarry.

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