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→ Another 5.14d Onsight For Adam Ondra∞

Posted July 15, 2014 at 7:47 am · Comments { 0 } ·

After another disappointing finish in a Lead World Cup in Chamonix where he failed to make it out of the qualifiers due to skipping a clip on the 2nd qualifier route, Adam Ondra made his way to Gravere, Italy and onsighted TCT (5.14d):

nice satisfaction after the lost Chamonix World cup. A tribute to Tito Traversa first ascended by Stefano Ghisolfi

This marks Ondra’s 3rd 5.14d onsight, all of them coming since July 2013.
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→ Biographie In A Day By Alex Megos∞

Posted July 14, 2014 at 12:36 pm · Comments { 12 } ·

In case we needed more evidence that Alex Megos is one of the top climbers in history, over the weekend he repeated Chris Sharma’s Biographie (5.15a) in just one day.

One.

Day.

Biographie.

Incredible.

Post by Alexander Megos.
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→ Second In The World∞

Posted July 9, 2014 at 8:13 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Shauna Coxsey, reflecting on her 2nd place finish in this year’s Bouldering World Cup:

I finished second in the World. I am happy with that result. I am content with the season as a whole and the performances that I gave. Well most of them. The last one however would need a whole lot of writing to make any sense of and I won’t go on much longer.

This season taught me a lot. Most importantly I learnt that I can win. I have thought that I can in the past but now I know.
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I am no longer competing for the unknown.
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I have a gold medal, it’s real, it’s possible.
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Also interesting to read just how stressful it can be for the athletes to endure the compact schedule these World Cup events had this year.

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→ 3rd Free Ascent Of PreMuir By Elias & Kerzhner∞

Posted July 3, 2014 at 8:08 am · Comments { 5 } ·

Rock & Ice caught up with Sam Elias after he and Mike Kerzhner did the 3rd free ascent of PreMuir (5.13+) on El Capitan in Yosemite, CA:

He fired it [the crux stem corner pitch]. Then, so did I. It wasn’t romantic. It was a nerve-racking nightmare. It required all my physical strength, as well as my mental resolve. This pitch always haunted my thoughts, and I felt that if we could get through it, we’d have a really good chance. We easily dispatched the next 5.13a pitch, and when the day was over, we were psyched.

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→ Sean McColl’s Double Podium Weekend∞

Posted June 25, 2014 at 1:15 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Sean McColl, writing on his blog:

I knew before this weekend started that it was going to be one of the hardest I’d ever have to endure. To compete in 3 disciplines in one weekend is exhausting.
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I’ve done it 4 times before, but never in 3 days. Every other time I’ve done 3 disciplines, there’s been a rest day somewhere in the middle; here there was none. A lot of people wonder why I compete in all 3, if I don’t worry about being tired.
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Honestly, it’s because I love the challenge.
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Why shouldn’t I be able to do it?

Indeed.

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→ Nalle Hukkataival Climbs Hard Multipitch∞

Posted June 25, 2014 at 10:12 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Not content with climbing the hardest boulder problems in the world, Nalle Hukkataival decided to get in the multipitch game with a free ascent of the route Silbergeier in Rätikon, Switzerland:

We managed to climb the legendary multi-pitch ‘Silbergeier’ in Rätikon! Partnered with Tomi Nytorp, I climbed the whole route free on June 21st, after having checked out the pitches briefly over 3 days. Quite the experience as it was my first real multi-pitch! Afterwards we got to enjoy the view from the summit on a picture perfect summer day before rapping back down. What a good time and huge respect to Beat Kammerlander for opening such an incredible route!

Silbergeier features difficulty up to 5.13d/5.14a along six pitches of runout limestone climbing.  You can see footage of Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat on the same climb here.

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→ Waggoner Takes The Reins at USA Climbing∞

Posted June 24, 2014 at 11:47 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Climbing Business Journal:

USA Climbing, the National Governing Body for Competition Climbing, is proud to announce that Kynan Waggoner has been named the Chief Executive Officer of the organization.

Well deserved.

Kynan has been a big supporter of the LT11 broadcasts of USA Climbing national events that I’ve been a part of, and I look forward to harassing him more at future events.
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 He’s also pretty creative when it comes to thinking of things to do with a shovel while out at the boulders, so there is that as well.

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