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The Not Worth It Boulders

Posted October 11, 2011 at 2:38 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

While the discovery and development of new boulders in Wyoming and elsewhere has gotten a lot of attention of late, it’s instructive to remember that many times the quest for new rock and new problems doesn’t always work out like we hope:

Honestly, while I would never like to return to the Not Worth It Boulders, it was totally worth going up there the first time to spend some time with friends.  It has helped me to truly appreciate all of the hard work and vision needed for the people who have developed the climbing areas that I get to visit.
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  I have spent many hours drooling over guide books wishing that I could have been the first person to climb some of the routes, but now I realize that I am pretty lucky to have all of the hard work done for me.
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Another Repeat Of The Wheel Of Life

Posted October 7, 2011 at 12:00 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

According to his 8a scorecard Australia’s Ben Cossey has repeated Dai Koyamada’s The Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians, Australia. Cossey registered the ascent as V141, and in response to posts on the Australian forum Chockstone he had this to say about the grade:

V16 represents the highest difficulty yet climbed by humans, even then these few problems are not confirmed. V15 takes the very best climbers a massive amount of effort to climb and yet there are not much more than a handful of confirmed ones in the world.
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The Wheel doesn’t really have any one move that you couldn’t find on, say, a V7.
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The hardest moves on it are in my opinion on Sleepy Hollow and yes, you have to bone down for sure because you’ve just climbed from the bottom but they aren’t crazy hard and certainly not in terms of V16 or even V15 hard.

He then goes on into more detail about the history of the problem, gives his opinion on kneebars and talks about the difficulty of the individual boulder problems that comprise Wheel Of Life.
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  1. The problem was first opened at a suggested grade of V16 ↩
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2nd Ascent Of Twenty Four Karats (5.14c)

Posted October 6, 2011 at 3:06 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Adam Taylor has done the likely 2nd ascent of Jonathan Siegrist’s Twenty Four Karats (5.14c) in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge.  While generally preferring to live life under the online climbing radar, Taylor has made news in previous years for other sends in the Red including his FA of Golden Ticket (5.14d) and his 2nd ascent of Pure Imagination (5.14d), another route first done by Jonathan Siegrist.

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5.14 Trad FA By Pete Kamitses

Posted October 4, 2011 at 1:22 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Climberism reports that Pete Kamitses has done the FA of Oppositional Defiance Disorder, a traditionally protected 5.14 in New York’s Adirondacks.  Climbing.com caught up with Kamitses for a brief interview about the ascent.

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2011 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell

Posted September 29, 2011 at 7:38 am · Comments { 3 } ·

Last weekend 250 crazy people climbers spent 24 straight hours clipping bolts at Arkansas’ Horseshoe Canyon Ranch for the aptly named 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell.  Nate Drolet and Brent Perkins won by setting a new event record, amassing 56,370 points across a combined 205 routes between 5.9 and 5.12d.  Full results can be found here and a write-up by event sponsor Petzl is here.  Big ups to Wisconsin climbers Pat and Ellen who logged a very respectable 163 routes!
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Ben Spannuth Repeats Era Bella (5.14d)

Posted September 28, 2011 at 7:38 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Looking at Ben Spannuth’s 8a scorecard we can see that he’s had a nice trip to Spain climbing several 5.14s and just recently repeating Chris Sharma’s Era Bella (5.14d) in Margalef.  Part of his motivation for the send?
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 One Dani Andrada:

when dani andrada yells venga you climb a muerte

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Thomas Willenberg

Posted September 26, 2011 at 9:40 am · Comments { 0 } ·

UKC interviews Thomas Willenberg who has climbed multiple V15s but is relatively unknown these days:

In the last decade both climbing and bouldering have changed significantly.  At the end of the 90s and the start of the 2000, the scene was dominated by charismatic personalities.
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These have been replaced by less colourful people in a never ceasing performance spiral.
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But maybe I’m just old fashioned, and probably this is simply something that belongs to this modern era and its character.
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