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Climber Who Doesn’t Care If You Know About It Climbs New V14 In Connecticut

Posted May 3, 2012 at 2:56 pm · Comments { 11 } ·

Ty Landman has apparently done a project of his out in Connecticut that could be in the V14 range.  Just don’t tell him I posted about it.
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 Please.  He hates this stuff:

One of the hardest aspects [of climbing] is dealing with the scene, all the talking about climbing and who’s doing what, you know. I hate that stuff. And that’s why I would never climb professionally again, because I don’t enjoy talking about all the climbs I’ve done. That’s why I respect people at the limit of the sport who don’t feel the need to report everything they do.

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“I Really Wanted It To Be Badass”

Posted May 2, 2012 at 4:31 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

More from Alex Honnold regarding his February solo of the 9 pitch 5.12b Monkey Finger in Zion:

Monkey Finger was probably my most anticlimactic “big wall” free solo. I really wanted it to be badass – for it to be something to feel proud of – but it just wasn’t.
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It was fun, it was good climbing, it’s a great route.
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But it just didn’t feel rad to me, which makes me worry that I’m getting a bit jaded. Still a good experience to be sure, and the hike off was lonely and beautiful, but just not quite the intensity that I was maybe hoping for.

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1,013

Posted May 1, 2012 at 8:28 am · Comments { 5 } ·

That’s the number of routes 5.11d or harder that Adam Ondra has logged on his 8a scorecard as of 4/26/2012.  That total includes a staggering 358 routes 5.14a or harder with 70 of those coming onsight.  As a point of comparison, Dave Graham has 190 5.
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14a or harder routes registered on his scorecard and he’s not exactly a slouch.  All this of course before Ondra has even finished High School.

∞ · Comments { 5 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 0 }
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Nope, 5.14d Still Hasn’t Been Onsighted…But It Won’t Be Long

Posted April 26, 2012 at 5:16 pm · Comments { 8 } ·

There’s been a lot of tongue twisting in the climbing news-osphere about Adam Ondra‘s recent FA of Joe-cita (5.14d) in Oliana, Spain.  While he did climb that specific line on his first try, he had previously climbed a portion of the link-up while climbing other routes.
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 Granted, he did either onsight or flash the harder parts, but  rules are rules.  He also came close to onsighting Duele la Realidad 2R (5.14d) but had to settle for a 2nd go send.
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Get your bets in now for when 5.
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14d is going to go down first go…

∞ · Comments { 8 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }

Another 5.14c Onsight For Adam Ondra

Posted April 23, 2012 at 2:02 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Adam Ondra is up to his old tricks, onsighting a 5.14c1 and doing the FA of a 5.14d according to this update he put together for PlanetMountain.  But what is perhaps most interesting is his revelation in an interview with 8a.nu that he was only recently able to complete his first one arm pull-up.  Multiple 5.14c onsights and 5.15b redpoints, repeats of several boulders in the V15-16 range and only now does he have the strength to pull off a one arm.

  1.  Footage of Gabriele Moroni on the FA of that line can be seen here ↩
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Jason Kehl On Ashima Shiraishi’s Time In Hueco Tanks

Posted April 19, 2012 at 2:16 pm · Comments { 9 } ·

Cool update from Jason Kehl about time spent in Hueco Tanks with Ashima Shiraishi:

I personally think grades are meaningless, a rough estimate. Ashima has proven this by taking everything we thought they new about grades and throwing it out the window.
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Its all about your perspective not about a number someone labeled the rock with.

Perhaps you’ve heard of her?

∞ · Comments { 9 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }
3rd Ascent Of Mirror Reality (V14)

3rd Ascent Of Mirror Reality (V14)

Posted April 18, 2012 at 12:10 pm · Comments { 5 } ·

Paul Robinson reports on his Facebook page that he’s done the 3rd ascent after Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb of Mirror Reality (V14) in RMNP.  Here are a couple more pictures of him on the problem and check out this short video a friend of Robinson’s put together for a flim contest that features him on one of his FA’s in Albarracin.

∞ · Comments { 5 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }