I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom.
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In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.
When In Doubt Pack It Out
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Gravelle Repeats Echale (V14)
I guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.
El Cap Report Returns For Spring 2012
So, listen up Cubicle Pukes!! Put down your work, clear the room, put on some cool tunes, and come with me to the Valley of your dreams, in this, the first of many Reports to follow.
Yep, the El Cap Report is back.

Hayden Kennedy Climbing Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-)
Back in March Hayden Kennedy did the FA of Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-) in Indian Creek, UT, and now courtesy of sponsor Patagonia we have this excellent video by Austin Siadak and Matt Van Biene of Kennedy climbing the route.
Ashima Hits The New York Times
Climbing phenom Ashima Hiraishi hits the front page of the New York Times’ Sports Section with an accompanying video featuring her on Crown Of Aragorn (V13).
Keep It Simple
Sonnie Trotter provides five tips for getting better at climbing rooted in the following premise:
The worlds most accomplished sport climber and boulderer Adam Ondra has recently completed his first one arm chin up according to Planet Mountain.com. This fact only reinforces what I (and dozens of other climbers and coaches) have said for years, the key to climbing hard is not in the arms at all.
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It’s mostly in the fingers and core.
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Issues Of Race, Class And Gender In The 2011 Reel Rock Film Tour
Many thanks to the reader who passed along this article from the blog Girls Like Giants in which the writer, who I don’t think is what one would consider a “hardcore” climber, reflects on her impressions of the 2011 Reel Rock Film Tour:
To pretend that there is no race or gender in climbing is naive. And indeed, while I really enjoyed a lot of the films in the 2011 Tour, most of them would reinforce gender stereotypes about the climbing world: nary a woman to be seen, except a few that hang around the camps of the kooky guys…
…snip…
It’s strange, trying to be ideologically savvy while watching Ashima climb in the midst of all these other climbing videos. You don’t want to point out her gender or her race – it seems somehow belittling to do so. She’s just an athlete, I want to say, doing what all climbers do, but better. But the subtext just doesn’t go away. All the while you’re aware that she’s a nine year old girl, she’s urban, she’s Japanese. These things make her even awesomer as a climber, right, because they’re the things she has to fight against.
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But…you’re not supposed to notice them. Watching this rock climbing film just made me incredibly conscious of how difficult it is to navigate race, gender, and other conditions shaping our lives.
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