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Some People Are Fast Healers…

Posted June 14, 2012 at 6:36 pm · Comments { 7 } ·

Here I am sitting on the couch 2+ weeks after surgery on my ankle after a frustratingly uneventful sport climbing injury that occurred almost two months ago, and Pamela Shanti Pack is out in Vedauwoo crushing the FA of a heinous offwidth just days after multiple surgeries because of a bad fall off said heinous offwidths.  Don’t I feel like a slacker…

Based on my history, I’m guessing I should steer clear of even looking at anything that resembles an offwidth, but if you’re into that sort of thing there is more visual goodness from Vedauwoo here.

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Ben Moon’s Journals

Posted June 5, 2012 at 7:03 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Climbing legend Ben Moon has been posting some of his diaries from June of 1990 which was when he freed Hubble1  (5.14c), likely the hardest route ever done to that point.
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 Here is his current day reflection on his entry from the day he did the route:

That’s a funny entry. I’ve just climbed the hardest route in the world, complain of being tired and then spend the rest of the day training.

  1.  The route’s working name was apparently Whore so don’t be confused when you don’t see Hubble everywhere in the diary ↩
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Yvon Chouinard: Patagonia’s Unlikely Business Guru

Posted May 29, 2012 at 7:14 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Cool article in the Wall Street Journal about Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard:

The evolution of Patagonia into a clothing company began in the 1970s, when Chouinard—then a world-class mountain climber and a designer of mountaineering equipment—started importing durable rugby shirts and corduroy knickers for his climber pals to wear. Soon enough, Patagonia was designing its own line of clothes. Soon after that, sales of the clothes far outstripped sales of the climbing gear. This is how Yvon Chouinard became an accidental apparel mogul.
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Oz

Posted May 23, 2012 at 10:25 am · Comments { 10 } ·

This incredible photo essay by Keith Ladzinski from his trip to Australia last year with Dave Graham, Nalle Hukkataival and Ian Dory would make a great coffee table book don’t you think?  (h/t Josh on twitter for the link).

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“You think it will be cool till it isn’t fun anymore”

Posted May 23, 2012 at 8:14 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The North Face catches up with their athlete Alex Honnold to find out a bit more about his and Tommy Caldwell’s big day in Yosemite, his plans to rope solo the same feat for his segment in the Reel Rock Tour and a casual mention of how he free soloed the West Face of El Cap.  As to how the idea for the triple link-up came about:

You do one route and you have a lot of time left in the day and you think, “Oh maybe we should have done two.” And eventually you do two with time left over and you say, “maybe we could do three…” and we did three and we didn’t have any time left over so we said, “we’re over it.
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”

More detail and pictures from Kelly Cordes on the big day here as well.

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Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Jon Cardwell

Posted May 22, 2012 at 5:03 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

According to his 8a scorecard, Jon Cardwell has repeated Bad Girls Club, a 5.14d in Rifle, CO first done last summer by Matty Hong.

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Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love

Posted May 18, 2012 at 2:24 pm · Comments { 4 } ·

Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:

Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.

Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.

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