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NY Times On Climbing Restrictions In Cuba

Posted July 6, 2012 at 6:10 am · Comments { 5 } ·

I’m not sure what the average New York Times reader cares about rock climbing restrictions in any country let alone Cuba, but I think climbers will find this piece by Alex Lowther interesting:

In March, one guard, a congenial man in a green button-down shirt, said: “We don’t like to say climbing is prohibited. Climbing isn’t prohibited, because prohibited is an ugly word.
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”

But may one climb?

“No,” he said.

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Circling The Drain

Posted July 4, 2012 at 11:36 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Will Gadd with some food for thought as we ‘Mericans celebrate our independence to do (and eat) pretty much whatever we set our minds to:

Things get real clear real quick: Eat shitty food and avoid exercise and you’ll stop moving and get larger. And once you get past a certain point it’s a lot harder to move (my hero lady aside). And if you stop moving you die.
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We’re all circling the drain every day of our lives; move faster and you stay farther from the hole for longer, like a marble in the sink.
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But making time to breathe can be hard. You have to fight for it. I’m proud of the times I win the fight to breathe hard.

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Webb Warriors Up

Posted July 3, 2012 at 7:11 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Jimmy Webb has done the third ascent after Daniel Woods and Dave Graham of Warrior Up at Lincoln Lake, Mt. Evans, CO.  Woods and Graham proposed V15 for the line but as is often the case, Webb suggested on his 8a scorecard that the line might be a bit easier for someone with his height so he registered it at V14.

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Catxasa (5.15a) 2nd Ascent By Ramon Julian Puigblanque

Posted June 27, 2012 at 4:31 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Ramon Julian Puigblanque reports on his blog (in Spanish) that he’s done the 2nd ascent of Chris Sharma’s Catxasa (5.15a) at Santa Linya.  Just thinking about the fact that it was 39° C (~102° F) when he sent the 150 ft.
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route makes me sweat as I type this…

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Safety First, Fun Second, Speed Third

Posted June 27, 2012 at 7:08 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Incredibly detailed pitch-by-pitch beta from Hans Florine from his recent record-breaking speed ascent of The Nose with Alex Honnold.  You know, just in case you’re planning your own sub-three hour run up El Cap.

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Wheel Of Life Repeated By Ian Dory

Posted June 20, 2012 at 4:30 pm · Comments { 12 } ·

Ian Dory is back in Australia again with Dave Graham and Nalle Hukkataival after a successful 2011 trip that he recapped in this excellent report.  In that post Dory mentions his efforts on Dai Koyamada’s Grampians testpiece The Wheel Of Life:

Overall the climb is a combination of 5 boulder problems: v9, v12, v9, v11, v8. After climbing with James Kassay I have been incredibly motivated to come back and take it down next trip.
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But what James has also taught me is that this climb takes time and is truly hands down difficult.
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It looks like Dory’s motivation paid off as he was able to complete the full problem for its likely 7th ascent a few days ago.
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5.14d FA By Ethan Pringle

Posted June 19, 2012 at 8:58 am · Comments { 62 } ·

In a lengthy catch up-style blog entry, Ethan Pringle eventually gets around to mentioning that he did the FA of an old Joe Brooks project at Mt. Charleston, NV called Arrested Development.  He describes the potentially 5.14d route as fun, heavily chipped and pretty hard:

I spent about 5 days on it this year, giving it 2-3 tries per day. I managed to send the route on my first try on my fifth day in May.
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While the route is manufactured, and heavily in spots, it is still one of the most fun to climb on routes I’ve ever done

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