The American Alpine Club is celebrating their acquisition of the Hueco Rock Ranch with a one day member drive TODAY. Sign up or renew your membership today and receive a free shirt commemorating the Rock Ranch acquisition in addition to all the other great benefits the AAC has to offer.
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American Alpine Club One Day Member Drive
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“I Can’t Be A Climber Forever”
Sasha DiGiulian speaks to her plan of enrolling at Columbia this fall in a lengthy piece on her in The Washington Post:
“Most of my competitors, in the World Cup circuit especially, are just climbing,” DiGiulian adds. “But I decided to go back to school.
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Because I know that, in the long term, I can’t be a climber forever.”
The whole piece is well worth reading as you can get a good feel for the level of success DiGiulian has achieved in a rather short period of time. While DiGiulian has always been a talented climber, remember that even two years ago she had done “only” one 5.141. What’s she’s done in the interim both in competitions and on real rock has been well documented, and her success seems well-deserved.
- She’s added 20 more since then ↩
Background On The Hueco Rock Ranch Sale
Access Fund Access Director Joe Sambataro, writing about the Access Fund’s role in the recent American Alpine Club acquisition of the iconic Hueco Rock Ranch:
Finishing his drink, Rob [Rice] explains how he came to Hueco shortly before the park rules changed, closing access to classic boulders and setting up a new process for permits and guide-only access. “It was important for me to honor Todd’s home and dream of a climbers’ hub,” explains Rob.
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He shares how he became the first commercial guide under the new public use plan, built a campground, and started a business of lodging and guiding, opening the Ranch up to the broader climbing community. “New generations of climbers have flocked to Hueco, and thousands of new stories have been made, year after year, here at the Ranch,” says Rob.
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“I want this legacy to continue in climber-friendly hands.
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”
Amen.
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Ashima Visits Japan
Rock & Ice has a nice photo recap by Eddie Gianelloni of Ashima Shiraishi’s trip to Japan that saw her repeat climbs up to V10.
First 5.14b For 11-Year-Old Brooke Raboutou
According to her 8a scorecard 11-year-old Brooke Raboutou has done her first 5.14b in Welcome To Tijuana at Rodellar, Spain. This makes her the likely youngest to ever achieve such a grade and no doubt the shortest as well. The 50-foot power endurance route Welcome to Tijuana is a popular first 5.14b as it was Brooke’s brother Shawn’s and Sasha DiGiulian’s first as well. It only took DiGiulian 14 months to make the jump from her first 5.
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14b to climbing 5.14d, I wonder how long it will take Brooke??
Nalle Hukkataival Hits The Ground Running In Cape Town
Nalle Hukkataival fresh off the plane after the journey from Australia to South Africa:
I just made the first repeat of Paul Robinson’s V15, A Simple Knowing1, at Topside. I managed to climb it quickly in half an hour. It’s a nice problem, but once again nowhere near the difficulty that I consider V15. On a related note, here’s a photo of Livin’ Large…
Hukkataival registered A Simple Knowing at V13 on his 27Crags ticklist, and he registered repeats of two other Robinson FAs at Topside that he suggested downgrades for as well.
Update: Well, Dave Graham has also repeated A Simple Knowing according to 27Crags, and apparently he and Hukkataival both found and used some better beta which explains the downgrade a bit better. Graham had this to say on his 8a scorecard:
Awesome prow climbing with big tension moves, ending in a legendary ninja swoop! Props to Paul for FA, its a great problem! Took me two sessions to put er down, grace of the left heal-toe cam we worked out with the posse. It definitely felt like 8b+, even with the new method.
Adam Ondra Visits Flatanger Cave
In what is now pretty much a standard day for Adam Ondra he visited the cave at Flatanger, Norway and came away with an onsight of a 5.
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14c and the FA of a potential 5.15a/b according to 8a.nu. The 5.14c was the route Eye Of Odin which was opened just the other week by Ethan Pringle.
Update: 8a.nu also reports that Ondra has onsighted Jorg Verhoeven’s route Nordic Flower which is also in the cave at Flatanger. Verhoeven suggested 5.14d for the route, but after onsighting it while hanging the draws Ondra has bravely and humbly suggested 5.14c.
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