Archive | Asides RSS feed for this section

“Return To Meru” Live Chat Tonight

Posted October 10, 2012 at 7:09 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The North Face is putting on a live stream of an event tonight with Jimmy Chin, Renan Ozturk and Conrad Anker as they recount their 2011 expedition to Mt .Meru’s Shark’s Fin.  The live stream starts at 7 PM PDT at TheNorthFace.com or on Facebook or on Ustream so take your pick.  You can ask questions of the group on Twitter using the hashtag #MeruLive.
buy levaquin online https://buynoprescriptionrxonline.com/dir/levaquin.html no prescription

∞ · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 3 } · Areas { 0 }
  1. No Areas associated with this post

3rd Ascent Of Dreamcatcher

Posted October 8, 2012 at 8:23 pm · Comments { 5 } ·

Chris Sharma’s iconic Squamish route Dreamcatcher (5.14d) got its third ascent (Sharma, McColl) last week from Canadian Ben Harnden according to this posting on the local message board.  Apparently Harnden is of the Brave & Humble™ variety so it’s unclear how much spray about the ascent will make it to the internet, but I, for one, can never get enough media from this route.  I guess we might just have to settle for re-watching Sharma and McColl climb this route.

∞ · Comments { 5 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }

Two Repeats Of Bunda De Fora (5.14d) By Muller, Kinder

Posted October 8, 2012 at 7:09 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Lev Pinter’s Bunda De Fora (5.14d) at the limestone crag Acephale in Canada’s Bow Valley recently saw two repeats at the hands of Josh Muller and Joe Kinder.  Kinder has a great blog post about the process of working this route that includes pictures of both him and Muller attempting it that is well worth checking out. Here’s how Kinder framed his mentality when approaching the route as a project:

This trip to The Bow Valley was a test.  It was an experiment to gun it for one route, Bunda De Fora.  The drive up was a little anxiety ridden with the idea (that I kept to myself), that I was going to buckle down on one hard project, period.
buy valtrex online https://onlinebuynoprescriptionrx.com/dir/valtrex.html no prescription

 I mean there were surely plan b, but this was what I wanted.  The climber mentality of “this is the most important thing in the world” is so obnoxious sometimes.
buy strattera online https://onlinebuynoprescriptionrx.com/dir/strattera.html no prescription

 I mean we aren’t saving anyone or doing anything other than an activity that makes us happy and satisfies us.  Ridiculous I know.  But… this is truly what it takes to be invested in hard climbing.

∞ · Comments { 1 } · Climbers { 2 } · Areas { 1 }

DPM Interviews Audrey Sniezek

Posted October 2, 2012 at 1:49 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Excellent interview from DPM with Audrey Sniezek who manages to succeed at a high level in the working and climbing worlds at the same time:

Audrey stands out from the crowd. She’s been able to maintain a well-paying job with benefits and climb 5.14b, simultaneously excelling in both the business and climbing world. Unlike other top-notch climbers that crawl out of the back of a truck to start the day, Audrey might swap out her heels and power suit for a sports bra and climbing shoes. On top of it all, she’s found time to volunteer and make a significant impact on the rural communities surrounding the Red River Gorge.

The work of Sniezek and other software engineers to teach computer science to high school students like those Sniezek is teaching in rural Kentucky was recently highlighted in this article in The New York Times.

∞ · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 0 }
  1. No Areas associated with this post

ABS: Anything But Speed

Posted September 27, 2012 at 8:26 pm · Comments { 48 } ·

Via Climbing.com comes a reminder that the IFSC announced at the recent World Championships in Paris that its bid for climbing to make the 2020 Olympic Games will focus exclusively on sport climbing:

Lead is the historical and traditional climbing discipline. It is the expression of climbing most commonly perceived by the public and a popular event among climbers and non-climbers. Lead events have also the most universal representation  and is the discipline that a majority of our national federations indicated as their favorite. Lead brings athletes beyond vertical in a continuous gravity challenge, and TV experts pointed out they need the height challenge.

I would actually argue that the most common expression of climbing “perceived by the public” is speed climbing1, which is exactly why it is important that speed climbing not be the discipline of climbing that heralds the sport’s return to the Olympics.  Speed climbing is ok in the context of larger climbing competitions, but to reinforce to a global audience the incorrect notion that speed climbing is actually something any climber does would be a mistake in my opinion.

Remember kids:  speed climbing is neither.

  1. Although Alex Honnold may be pushing free soloing into the lead with the attentions he’s been getting of late ↩
∞ · Comments { 48 } · Climbers { 0 }
  1. No Climbers associated with this post
 · Areas { 0 }
  1. No Areas associated with this post

Spotting Climbers In The Wild

Posted September 26, 2012 at 7:01 am · Comments { 1 } ·

I plead guilty to 6 out of the 9 charges your honor.

∞ · Comments { 1 } · Climbers { 0 }
  1. No Climbers associated with this post
 · Areas { 0 }
  1. No Areas associated with this post

Bass For Your Face’s Abyss Review

Posted September 21, 2012 at 12:09 pm · Comments { 22 } ·

Really the only review of the recent LT11 film Abyss you need to read1:

This movie had everything you would expect from a Colorado bouldering video: gratuitous tick marks, drastic lowballs, easy looking v13′s, and Chris Schulte climbing compression problems. And it had NOTHING in common with the original Abyss.  No submarines, no aliens, no Marinara Trench, and no crazy mustached dude suffering from the bends.
buy neurontin online https://clinicaorthodontics.com/wp-content/themes/twentytwentytwo/inc/patterns/new/neurontin.html no prescription

VERY disappointing.

  1. Just don’t read it if you’re offended by the occasional piece of naughty language ↩
∞ · Comments { 22 } · Climbers { 0 }
  1. No Climbers associated with this post
 · Areas { 0 }
  1. No Areas associated with this post