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Devil’s Kitchen

Posted October 31, 2012 at 3:50 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

I had the pleasure of spending some time talking shop with Jamie Emerson when I was in Boulder a couple of weeks ago, and one topic of conversation was his recent climbing in Wyoming’s Devil’s Kitchen.  He’s since updated his blog with an update on the past few trips he’s made to help develop this incredible looking area:

It’s been a great fall of developing awesome new problems on outstanding rock in a wild setting. These are the kinds of days I live for, and while there are too many subtle moments to properly convey in post like this, it would be an understatement to say I’ve been motivated. It’s hard to imagine I would have come to such a place after so long, but I am loving every minute of it.
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I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again.
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I am fortunate to be able to share this area and my experiences with all of you.
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More from Devil’s Kitchen in this video of Ryan Silven and this video of Daniel Woods doing the FA of Never Cry Wolf (v13).

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Nemesis Rigs

Posted October 31, 2012 at 7:08 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Somewhere his latest post recapping some “nemesis projects” that have been giving him trouble of late in Colorado, Dave Graham makes some good points that could apply to any of us:

Many of these Nemesis Projects I keep secret. I don’t like people to know how difficult they feel for me, because they will tell me i’m weak, make fun of me, all Colorado style, and give me lots of shit. “Its an easy 8b dude, I don’t know what your problem is” or “Maybe you should train more in the gym, I think you need to bulk up” I’m sensitive to that talk.
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Colorado can suck. It would be just like the kids used to do at that Jewish Day Camp my Dad sent me too.
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I was the only kid who wasn’t Jewish. So they gave me shit. Which wasn’t cool. I want to avoid that.

Somewhere in there.

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Two 5.14c’s By Ashima Shiraishi In The Red River Gorge

Posted October 29, 2012 at 7:14 am · Comments { 1 } ·

11-year-old Ashima Shiraishi had an incredible trip to the Red River Gorge over the past week or so.
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 She started the trip by climbing her first 5.14a and then flashing her first 5.14a shortly thereafter.  With that out of the way she set her sights on something a little harder, and in back to back days on Friday and Saturday she succeeded in climbing both Southern Smoke and Lucifer.  DPM’s Mikey Williams was there on Friday for the Southern Smoke send and he has more details on the Lucifer send as well.  Amazing.

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PlanetMountain’s “Multi-pitch” Interview With Adam Ondra

Posted October 24, 2012 at 10:30 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Great interview from PlanetMountain with Adam Ondra covering competitions, his first year as a full-time climber, climbing styles and pushing his limits, like he did on his recent 5.15c FA Change:

 Recent times have definitely been a change for me, hence the name of this route, because it’s the epitome of all of this. It is like entering a new world, where all childhood obsessions and dreams are just multiplied. I now have endless possibilities about where to go – which is why I love climbing – and I myself don’t know what to do first.

It’s hard to believe that he’ll be 20 this coming February.

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Free Climbing The PreMuir

Posted October 24, 2012 at 7:35 am · Comments { 3 } ·

Brit Hazel Findlay has put together a nice post on her blog detailing her efforts, along with Neil Dyer and James McHaffie, to do the 2nd free ascent of the PreMuir (5.13+, 33 pitches) on El Capitan:

I think that when I look back at our PreMuir mission, what I will remember most is being on that ledge at 9.30 at night almost too mentally and physically tired of trying hard to enjoy the moment. We could taste the relief that was to come, but still there was some small doubt that we wouldn’t be able to pull it out of the bag. But skill, or good luck, or effort or something else was on our side and the next day we found ourselves at the top, too tired to sing and dance, but happy nonetheless.

It’s well worth reading the full post, which is loaded with great pictures from Tom Evans, to get a good sense of the effort required to free climb these hard lines on El Cap.

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Two 5.14c’s By Joe Kinder In Utah

Posted October 22, 2012 at 4:21 pm · Comments { 2 } ·

Joe Kinder recently ticked off two 5.14c’s in Utah which he recapped in this blog post full of some great pictures and this quote that really applies to all of us:

My GAWD I was psyched.  Put it this way… GOALS WERE ALL MET!  What more could I ask for?!?!  Two 8c+ routes (2nd ascents I believe) in a week just sounds cool to me.  I mean really, I am not Adam Ondra or anyone that bad ass, but shit man… when you send your projects you feel like THE MAN!!!  I love that and have gotten a few good doses of it and now i need more…

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Access Fund Acquires Holy Boulders

Access Fund Acquires Holy Boulders

Posted October 18, 2012 at 4:18 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

The Access Fund has acquired Southern Illinois’ Holy Boulders and they need your help:

The Access Fund is pleased to announce that it has acquired the Holy Boulders in Southern Illinois. However, more help is needed from the climbing community to fundraise and transfer the property to a long-term owner.

They are looking to raise $185,000 from the climbing community to help cover acquisition and other related expenses, a tall task for an area that has flown under the radar over the years due to the tenuous nature of the previous access situation.  To help whet your appetite to support this project the Access Fund has put together this video as well as a small topo for the area.  Full details can be found here.

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